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98 FIREBIRD WILL NOT START
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
03-18-2010 @ 12:07:46 Reply | Edit
All of a sudden it will not start up. (Actually on the day i was about to meet someone to sell it to them.)
It turns over but never fires up. I have gotten it to fire up after playing with the gas cap. And that has thrown me off.
I can hear the fuel pump kick in. So thats fine.
After that I do not know where to look next. Can anyone pinpoint it to one or two parts that need to be checked/replaced?
I really dont want to be guessing and checking by replacing new parts but if you have to I will.
I do have a scan gauge II tool so I can read info.
Please help.
Thanks,
John
Posted By:
Fury_786
On:
07-09-2007 @ 15:09:12 Reply | Top | Edit
check fuel and spark.
plugs, wires, fuel pressure
--
2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid] [K&N] [Flowmaster] [Exedy Clutch Kit] [B&M Shifter] [BMR Strut Tower Brace] [PCMforLess tune] [100 shot EFI wet kit] [Pacesetter headers] [SLP Line Locks] [Lakewood LCA's] [Poly Trans Mount] [180* Thermo] [No Cat] [Accel Wires] [Electric Cutout] [Springtech 1.75" drop] [free air mods] [Optima Red Top(in trunk) ] [275-40 Sumitomos]

Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-09-2007 @ 15:14:49 Reply | Top | Edit
I am no great mechanic. What is the best way to test without replacing the plugs, wires?
What do you mean by check the fuel?
I am sure I can find the fuel pressure from my scan gauge. What range should I looking at? Is during the crank or before?
Thanks again.
Posted By:
Fury_786
On:
07-09-2007 @ 15:48:37 Reply | Top | Edit
pull a plug and hold it on the engine while the car is cranking to see if its firing or not.
fuel, meaning pressure....it should be around 45-50psi with the key on, engine off. (someone correct me if im wrong).
--
-2002- Camaro M5, 3.8L, Bolt on's, Tune, Nitrous wet Kit, DD.
-1967- JR Fuel Dragster, 406 ci, Hillborn alky inj., MSD Mag, SRT Pglide. - FS, 10k Turnkey...5K roller
-1975- Camaro, 287 small block, turbo 350, stripped...(406 in progress)
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-09-2007 @ 17:15:44 Reply | Top | Edit
Never tested a spark plug before. Just lay it on the engine block and turn it over?
Ill check the PSI's tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks.
I hope its an easy fix.
Posted By:
Fury_786
On:
07-09-2007 @ 19:00:31 Reply | Top | Edit
thats the easiest way to test plugs....just dont touch it  --
2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid] [K&N] [Flowmaster] [Exedy Clutch Kit] [B&M Shifter] [BMR Strut Tower Brace] [PCMforLess tune] [100 shot EFI wet kit] [Pacesetter headers] [SLP Line Locks] [Lakewood LCA's] [Poly Trans Mount] [180* Thermo] [No Cat] [Accel Wires] [Electric Cutout] [Springtech 1.75" drop] [free air mods] [Optima Red Top(in trunk) ] [275-40 Sumitomos]

Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-11-2007 @ 14:20:51 Reply | Top | Edit
I feel stupid asking this, but I have to in order to fix/check it.
Where are the plugs located and how can you get to them. I see where the wires run off under the passenger side of the engine block and I and think I see one plug but where are the rest. Do you have to jack it up and pull from underneath?
Thanks for any tips. I would send this to a mechanic but since it is dead i would have to pay for towing and I am cheap.
I have an extotic rare SUV that I am used to working on, but it it built to work on very easily with easily reached coil over packs.
Thanks for the help.
John.
Posted By:
Fury_786
On:
07-11-2007 @ 15:41:18 Reply | Top | Edit
all of the plugs are at the end of the plug wires on the side of the engine. you can get to all off them from the top. a spark plug socket makes the job much easier. and there is no special order to pull them out, but make sure you get the wires back on the same way they came off.
a Haynes manual would be a great help to ya...its like $20 @ Autozone. --
2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid][K&N][Flowmaster][B&M Shifter][BMR STB][SRI Panhard Bar w/boxed upper][PCMforLess tune][100 shot EFI wet kit][Pacesetter headers][SLP Line Locks][Lakewood LCA's][Poly Trans Mount][180* Thermo][No Cat][Accel Wires][Electric Cutout][Springtech 1.75" drop][fra mods][Optima Red Top (in trunk)][275-40 Sumitomos]

Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-11-2007 @ 16:58:44 Reply | Top | Edit
I really could not reach but one plug the one in the front. This is for the 3.8L right? The rest seem to be under a part of the headers? LOW on the passenger side of the engine???
Is there an online manual somwhere. Thanks for your patience with me.
Posted By:
pawn65
On:
07-18-2007 @ 17:37:57 Reply | Top | Edit
yeah let me get home and ill send you pics of it from a manual i have on cd. -- 2000 Zinc Yellow Mustang GT "Spring Feature" 1 of 917.

Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-19-2007 @ 16:05:09 Reply | Top | Edit
Thats awesome thanks. I really doubt that the spark plugs are failing. I mean really. If I am thinking right and PLEASE correct me if I am wrong, but for a car to never misfire and then go straight to not starting wouldnt I cancel out the plugs. I just seems like since I am not starting that it would take multiple plug fialures at once to make that happen?
Would a clogged fuel filter cuase this? I have not gotten it to start in a while now. And then get this, sitting in the driveway a tire goes flat. On my way home the last time I drove it I ran over a nail. AWESOME, espcially since I have been trying to sell it.
Posted By:
HBHRacing
On:
07-19-2007 @ 18:38:16 Reply | Top | Edit
Hearing the pump run isn't going to tell you much of anything. You need to check fuel pressure. Go buy/rent a pressure gauge and use it on the test fitting of the fuel rail. Key on, engine off pressure should be near 60 PSI and stay within 5 PSI of that for at least 5mins.
Do that first. It's the easiest thing to rule out.
After that you can look into spark and injector pulse. -- Owner of HBHRacing.com Xtreme performance products
Click for new Fbody Tech Articles

Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
07-19-2007 @ 19:08:45 Reply | Top | Edit
Thanks. I think my scan gauge II tool does that through the OBD connector. Ill check.
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
08-15-2007 @ 17:24:01 Reply | Top | Edit
I was wrong my scan gauge will not do that unitll the car is started. I dont get it. I thought it would no matter what. I picks up all other measurements.
How much are one of those tools or where do you rent one?
I really dont think my plugs are failing. Do you think a fuel filter replacement could do the trick?
Posted By:
3pt4_N00b
On:
08-15-2007 @ 19:21:54 Reply | Top | Edit
I think the fuel pressure might be closer to 50 psi than 60 -- 2001 Turbo Camaro m5 - RIP 10/26/2006
1994 Trans Am A4 - Bolt ons & Built tranny
1994 Camaro m5 - 3.8 swap coming along with turbo kit
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
08-16-2007 @ 11:53:49 Reply | Top | Edit
Yeah I thought 45-50 psi, but I at least need to get it read. Where do you find a reader at? I have http://www.scangauge.com/ which I thought would read it but I guess I has to be running?
I just dont understand why all of a sudden with NO symptoms it just started to not fire up. Thats why I dont think its the spark pluggs becuase there was no misfire.
Then I was mislead to think it was vapor lock.
Any insight on this? Thanks.
Posted By:
judge1
On:
08-18-2007 @ 17:22:44 Reply | Top | Edit
Are you for real this sounds like a bad joke! Read through it . Unhook just 1 wire at the ignition coil (plug wire ) then crank the engine listen/watch for a spark if none check back and I will add more info.
Posted By:
Jeremiah
On:
08-19-2007 @ 03:20:08 Reply | Top | Edit
Get a fuel pressure tester at Autozone. -- **FOR SALE** 2005 GMC 1500HD 6.0L, dumped true duals - Flowmaster 50 series - 16.43@85.29
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - 3.8L - bone stock
"I say durka durka fuk fuk... ...fo shizzle!" --Jackie(94RedFormula)
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
08-22-2007 @ 17:26:56 Reply | Top | Edit
I checked the plug wires with a tool that shows when the wires recive power and none of them did. Would a distributor cap take care of this?
I replaced the fuel filter this weekend as well.
Thanks for the help.
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
08-30-2007 @ 12:50:55 Reply | Top | Edit
Since the wires are not reciveing any current, what should my next step be?
I really dont want to send this to a shop. I would have to pay for towing just to get it there.
Please advise. Thank you.
Posted By:
Bruzer
On:
09-18-2007 @ 10:38:34 Reply | Top | Edit
Distributor caps get corroded commonly especially if you have had it sitting. -- 1986 Firebird 305,4bbl Edelbrock,w/5sp
1982 Z28 Pace car,

Posted By:
judge1
On:
09-18-2007 @ 23:13:45 Reply | Top | Edit
go out and buy an Ignition module then replace. recheck for spark.
Posted By:
jharris1385
On:
10-10-2007 @ 15:35:36 Reply | Top | Edit
Well I took it to shop and paid them $714.
The replaced the ignition modules, crankshaft sensor, and I had a leaking fuel line.
But I drive it home and it drives fine. However after a day or two sit in the driveway. I start it up and it has a hard time accelerating. I just would not accellerate harder than 2,000 prms. The sound out the exhaust was muffled and sounded like there was air constriction. I
I took it back of course. They said it needs new wires and plugs now.
Is this true?
What would cuase the acceleration to non-existent? I drove but it would putter ALOT?
Any help
Thanks,
John
Posted By:
99FirechicN
On:
10-12-2007 @ 21:18:45 Reply | Top | Edit
i just this year had to replace the plugs and wires on my car. most can be reached from the top but several are easier if taken out from underneath. it's simple to do. mine was doing the same sputtering and when i laid into it more it coughed and seemed like it was about to die... if you can hear a clicking or static kind of noise while driving when the radio is on replace them. and check the coils! i went through all the plugs and plug wires *granted they looked awful and needed replaced* before i decided to replace the coil for cylander 3. but if there is a misfire after so long the service engine lite will come on giving you a code to read. mine is slow to accelerate as well but i think my trany just needs some tlc and a shift kit. =) i hope this helps somewhat.
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