| ||||
|
[ Post New Message | Reply | Edit Profile | Register | Search | Current Connections | Message Board FAQ | Lost Password? ]
overheating Posted By: roskolokes On: 03-16-2010 @ 21:36:41 Reply | Edit Hey guys, I have a problem! my car over heats! it does it like seasonally or something. the oil just dissapears and the car starts overheating.(then the water dissapers too!) I went to a shop and they put dye in my coolant but we could find no leak!we found that some of the dye was in the oil. they said the water might be getting in there through the intake manifold but im not sure if they're B.S.ing me! any advice is appreciated. oh P.S. when it does this the temp. goes up and down like crazy =/.... Posted By: crunkmaro On: 04-26-2007 @ 22:29:13 Reply | Top | Edit let me get this straight...they found coolant dye in the oil? --  Posted By: Rg320camaro On: 04-26-2007 @ 23:05:02 Reply | Top | Edit You obviously have coolant mixing with your oil, that would be the problem for running low on coolant. Your also probably burning oil or have a leak somewhere. Those two things = overheating. -- Trent '99 Z28 - cammed/exhaust/intake 
SOLD '98 3.8 - lid, K&N, CAI, MF CB, !CAT, cutout, SPEC stg 2, walbro fuel pump, hbh fanswitch, alum. DS Posted By: roskolokes On: 04-27-2007 @ 00:52:09 Reply | Top | Edit yeah but we couldnt find an oil leak? why would the oil burn? YES THERE WAS COOLANT DYE IN THE OIL! but im not sure if its some shananagan theyre tryin to pull =/... Posted By: Rg320camaro On: 04-27-2007 @ 01:05:49 Reply | Top | Edit Take your oil cap off and look at it. If there's a milky substance on there, then coolant is mixing with the oil. You'll need to replace some gaskets and o-rings I believe to stop that. As for the oil burning, how many miles are on the car and what year? My 3.8 started burning a little oil about a year ago. Although, it was less than a quart. What kind of oil do you use? Synthetic, or regular? What brand? While these shouldn't have any affect on the oil burning, for some reason they may be related. -- Trent '99 Z28 - cammed/exhaust/intake SOLD '98 3.8 - lid, K&N, CAI, MF CB, !CAT, cutout, SPEC stg 2, walbro fuel pump, hbh fanswitch, alum. DS -- Trent '99 Z28 - cammed/exhaust/intake SOLD '98 3.8 - lid, K&N, CAI, MF CB, !CAT, cutout, SPEC stg 2, walbro fuel pump, hbh fanswitch, alum. DS [ Edited on 04/27/2007 @ 01:07:24 ] Posted By: roskolokes On: 04-27-2007 @ 02:09:11 Reply | Top | Edit its a 98 bird with about 95k on it. I use synthetic. ive used different brands. Posted By: Jeremiah On: 04-27-2007 @ 02:14:54 Reply | Top | Edit Its either getting in there via the intake or you have a blown head gasket...either way, GET IT FIXED. -- 2005 GMC 1500HD 6.0L, dumped true duals - Flowmaster 50 series - 16.43@85.29 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - L36 - bone stock 
"I say durka durka fuk fuk... ...fo shizzle!" --Jackie(94RedFormula) Posted By: crunkmaro On: 04-27-2007 @ 03:28:28 Reply | Top | Edit just makin sure...but apparentely everyone got to you first... you have a bad leak. coolant in oil is never good. get it fixed asap Posted By: HBHRacing On: 04-27-2007 @ 08:37:24 Reply | Top | Edit There is no coolant in the oil, only die, which isn't possible. If there was a coolant leak, it would be easily found in the oil. No one needs to put dye in the colling system to find a leak. -- Owner of HBHRacing.com Xtreme performance products Click for new Fbody Tech Articles  Posted By: Rg320camaro On: 04-27-2007 @ 15:43:26 Reply | Top | Edit when you change your oil, find a brand you like and stick with it. your engine won't like haveing different brands of oil in it all the time. Even though they're the same weight, they're still different. -- Trent '99 Z28 - cammed/exhaust/intake
SOLD '98 3.8 - lid, K&N, CAI, MF CB, !CAT, cutout, SPEC stg 2, walbro fuel pump, hbh fanswitch, alum. DS Posted By: Fury_786 On: 04-27-2007 @ 18:54:17 Reply | Top | Edit 
A vehicle will burn oil several ways, usually as engines wear, the piston rings do not seal correctly and oil passes them and goes into the cylinder. Most likely you have an intake or head gasket blown. in any case, ask around and find a good shop to take it to. -- 
2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid] [K&N] [Flowmaster] [Exedy Clutch Kit] [B&M Shifter] [BMR Strut Tower Brace] [PCMforLess tune] [100 shot EFI wet kit] [Pacesetter headers] [180* Thermo] [No Cat] [Accel Wires][Electric Cutout] [Springtech 1.75" drop] [free air mods] [Optima Red Top (in trunk) ]  Posted By: HBHRacing On: 04-27-2007 @ 19:40:20 Reply | Top | Edit ok.. There is a lot of bad information being thrown around this thread. I guess I need to take some time and clear it all up. Look, you have GOT to post full and compete information. You don't even mention the type of car, or give any hints to it's current condition, mods, history or anything. You don't even tell us what year it is. You cant be helped when you don't give any information, and you cant expect people to give you anything but wrong answers when they could be thinking one motor, while you have a totally different one. The other thing you have to do, is clearly post about whats going on. You have conflicting information that no one but a pro will be able to sort out as I am about to do. So on to that we go. Fact one, you really don't dye a coolant system. There is no need. The cost of dye tracing is far greater then standerd pressure testing that will give you the same results faster. If the engine is overheating, and the motor needs to be run for teh dye to circulate, it doesn't make much sense to overheat the motor so you can find teh leak does it? Pressure testing will find a leak in the colling system, period. If they didnt do this, they are not very smart at all and don't know what they are doing. You NEED to work on the coolant loss first. It NEEDS to be pressure tested in order to find the leak and or problem. A shop can figure it out fairly easily whether it be a leak, restriction etc etc etc. Moving on down the line. If the dye was in the oil, water would be in the oil. Water is easier to see then the dye and would be in massive more quantity then the dye. It would be completely obvious and clear that water was entering the oil system. if you want to check for coolant do one of 2 things. Run the motor and pull the dipstick. Brown milky oil = water. Normal looking oil = no water. or let the car sit several hours untill cool. Remove the oil plug. Water will run out first, then oil will. If it's just oil coming out, there is no water. Onto what other people said: You obviously have coolant mixing with your oil, that would be the problem for running low on coolant. Not true, because of the different neglected bits of information and bad information, you cant have clear enough reason to assume that's whats happening. It needs to be found out for sure where the water is going first. Take your oil cap off and look at it. If there's a milky substance on there, then coolant is mixing with the oil Also not true. Milky crud on the oil CAP means nothing. Water isn't gong to get onto teh cap if it's in the oil system and look milky, it will happen in the pan. Sludge like that on the CAP is normal from condensation, and/or a faulty or incorrectly working positive crankcase evacuation system. Its either getting in there via the intake or you have a blown head gasket Is a jump to a conclusion based on poor information. It should be said to confirm whats happening first and then determine the course of action. He himself didnt know the facts about what was happening, so none of us can even start to claim otherwise. when you change your oil, find a brand you like and stick with it. your engine won't like having different brands of oil in it all the time. Even though they're the same weight, they're still different. Doesn't really have anything to do with anything. Brands of oil don't matter. Just quality of oil. Lower cost oils usually contain more detergents are make more of a mess while better ones burn cleaner and more reliable with better wear protections. He said already that he runs synthetic, which even a bad synthetic is pretty good so it takes all that out of the picture. Though it's still best to run the best synthetic oil you can buy. A vehicle will burn oil several ways It will only "Burn" one way. In the combustion chambers. It would also be noticeable from the amount of blue smoke from the exhaust. It can leak or burn, but only burn in one way. in any case, ask around and find a good shop to take it to. A big fat yes. -- Owner of HBHRacing.com Xtreme performance products Click for new Fbody Tech Articles Posted By: Fury_786 On: 04-27-2007 @ 19:44:48 Reply | Top | Edit my bad H. i was trying to say that oil can leak through an intake gasket or head gasket, into the combustion chamber and "burn"... from the info i understood, the oil is disappearing, so it has to be going somewhere, either into the cooling system or burning. 
this is all odd, from an engine with less than 100K though -- 
-2002- Camaro M5, 3.8L, bolt ons, nitrous, DD. -1967- JR Fuel Dragster, 406 ci, Hilborn alcohol injection, SRT powerglide. -1975- Camaro, 400 small block, turbo 350, stripped.... Posted By: HBHRacing On: 04-27-2007 @ 19:55:50 Reply | Top | Edit There is no oil in the intake on a 3.8 so it cant enter the CC like that. Only from excessive blow by or valve issues. Oil also can not get into the colling system. Only the other way around. The cooling system is running at about 15PSI of pressure. The oil when not in the bearings and other internals, are not pressurized. You cant get something from an area of low pressure to infiltrate an area of high pressure. Coolant will and can enter the oiling system for that very reason. -- Owner of HBHRacing.com Xtreme performance products Click for new Fbody Tech Articles
|
||||
| If it looks (c) it probably is - All work done by James Hogan | ||||
