FBody.com Message Board - 95 5-speed 3.4L build-up

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95 5-speed 3.4L build-up

Posted By: cochran191 On: 03-13-2010 @ 17:17:04 Reply | Edit

I'm looking to add some power to my 3.4L. My insurance company won't cover me if I drive a V8 so I cannot just sell this car and get a new one. I'm looking to boost power to around 250-300hp. My budget is flexible and can go up to around $5000. I have some things in mind that i have seen others do and was wondering what everybody here thought. Heres a list of some of the things I have been told to do:

SLP Performance Parts Cold Air Induction Systems
Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust Systems
Pace Setter Mid-Tube Headers
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (Satin)
Hurst Billet/Plus Shifters
Edelbrock Performer Cam
JET Performance Underdrive Pulley Kits
Hypertech Power Stats 160
Summit Mass Airflow Sensors

Is this to much, or not enough, I would like to do a no-slip differential but don't know of any for my car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Posted By: cypher_2001 On: 04-24-2007 @ 17:30:26 Reply | Top | Edit

Your best bet would be gears, exhaust, intake, maybe cam it, and get it tuned. I doubt you will get around 250-300, but that combined will be a nice gain.

If you still want performance and need to keep a v6, I would sell that car, find a nice 3.8, and build it with the setup I mentioned above. You would pull about 250 with the right cam, intake, tune, and full exhaust. Just have to make sure you tune it right.

Or keep the 3.4 and get a 3k turbo kit for it, but I really think you need to get posi/gears with it. No sense putting down all that power with only 1 wheel to push it...
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Posted By: Jeremiah On: 04-24-2007 @ 17:44:04 Reply | Top | Edit

Well, the most hp out of a 3.4L(that I know of) was done by Tiago and he put 330hp or so at the wheels with heads/cam/turbo, ect.

With the mods listed, you will still be under 200hp at the wheels. Those will definitly wake the car up, but it takes those mods for the 3.8 to break the 200hp mark. Its going to take MAJOR $$$ and work to get the 3.4L up that high.

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2005 GMC 1500HD 6.0L, dumped true duals - Flowmaster 50 series - 16.43@85.29
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - L36 - bone stock

"I say durka durka fuk fuk... ...fo shizzle!" --Jackie(94RedFormula)

Posted By: jjdynomite

On: 04-24-2007 @ 17:49:16 Reply | Top | Edit

gears, exhaust, cam, nitrous
a few performance decals on the side will really boost up the power
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Posted By: cochran191 On: 04-24-2007 @ 17:58:53 Reply | Top | Edit

I have tried to sell my car several times but i have found that i just can't do it. Maybe my plans were a little ambitious, but i really just want to wake my car up. I'm not a fan of nitrous or turbos but i thought about maybe adding a Jet Stage 2 Chip and a Venom 400 Performance control module since the Venom module can be turned on and off with a switch. I will definitely go with posi if someone could point me in the right direction for that. I would do gears as well if someone could help me out there

Posted By: Venomaro On: 04-24-2007 @ 20:19:04 Reply | Top | Edit

yeah be careful when u ask these faggots questions....all they do is talk shit and act like queers....well they are but n e who....

Posted By: Fury_786 On: 04-24-2007 @ 21:22:24 Reply | Top | Edit

^haha...hes a vet here...

anyhow, your lookin in the right direction, intake and exhaust is almost always the first and best thing you can do. some of the parts you have listed are for V8 cars, like the headers and the MAF sensor. but the cam is do-able, as well as some cylinder heads.

ive had both the 3.4 and the 3.8...there is a HUGE difference between them. if you could find a wrecked 3.8L car and do a swap, it would be good for 40HP off the bat, and building power in that motor is MUCH easier.

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2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid] [K&N] [Flowmaster] [Exedy Clutch Kit] [B&M Shifter] [BMR Strut Tower Brace] [PCMforLess tune] [100 shot EFI wet kit]
[Pacesetter headers] [No Cat] [Accel Wires][Electric Cutout] [Springtech 1.75" drop] [free air mods] [Optima Red Top (in trunk) ]

Posted By: cypher_2001 On: 04-24-2007 @ 21:28:04 Reply | Top | Edit

Do the intake, then exhaust, then go over to Texas-speed.com and get your gears. If your car is highway driven alot, I would go with 3.73's. If you do mostly in town driving, maybe 4.11's. Then you will need a series 3 carrier. You can usually get a good used unit for about 100-175 from a local fbody guy. Just look for a posi unit from a 93-02 fbody. The posi units from these will work across all years. I would recommend though that you get the Auburn posi, that was used up until 2000 I think. The Zexel units that they switched to in 2k I have heard are kinda junky.
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Posted By: cochran191 On: 04-25-2007 @ 12:45:41 Reply | Top | Edit

If i swap my 3.4 to a 3.8 or a 5.7 do i have to report it to the insurance company or is it like the rest of the modifications that i can just not worry about it. I'm sure i do but i was just wondering.

Posted By: cypher_2001 On: 04-25-2007 @ 15:11:09 Reply | Top | Edit

If you swap in the 3.8, no. If you swap in the 5.7 yes
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Posted By: squisher On: 04-25-2007 @ 15:28:04 Reply | Top | Edit

The aluminum 3400 heads have been suggested as a nice upgrade to the 3.4 bottom end. The heads themselves should bolt to the block no problem, but those heads were only ever packaged in a FWD setup so there will probably be some custom fabrication for accessory mounting and exhaust manifold mounting.

Posted By: Fury_786 On: 04-25-2007 @ 17:02:22 Reply | Top | Edit

Heads on the bottom end?

im confused
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Posted By: cochran191 On: 04-26-2007 @ 08:29:49 Reply | Top | Edit

I think I've got the insurance company to take a second look at my policy and maybe not triple my insurance if I decide to go with a V8. But i think I would rather put one in my car than sell my car and buy another since my car is only worth about as much as the motor i would be putting in it. How hard would it be to take out my 3.4 and swap in a complete LT1 out of the same year TA?

Posted By: Jeremiah On: 04-26-2007 @ 10:07:07 Reply | Top | Edit

Dont do the Venom thing...not worth it by any means. The money you would spend on the Jet and Venom stuff, you could get a good custom tune that will do much more for the car than those things could ever do.

People do the swap all the time. In fact, a guy on this site did it recently and made a post about it. There are a couple of sites out there that will tell you everything you need to do...just gotta search for it.
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2005 GMC 1500HD 6.0L, dumped true duals - Flowmaster 50 series - 16.43@85.29
2006 Pontiac Grand Prix - L36 - bone stock

"I say durka durka fuk fuk... ...fo shizzle!" --Jackie(94RedFormula)

Posted By: burton9055 On: 05-21-2007 @ 22:57:41 Reply | Top | Edit

i have the same year and model and i thought about the flowmaster and the underdrive pulley. i dont have money for them right now, but i think they would be good. I have a question for u, which rims do u think r better
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARE%2D68377566&FROM=MG
OR
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARE%2D6997963&FROM=MG

Posted By: cochran191 On: 05-22-2007 @ 09:06:26 Reply | Top | Edit

My Caps Lock Button Is Broken

Posted By: squisher On: 06-07-2007 @ 12:55:03 Reply | Top | Edit

You can always to go 60degreev6.com for ideas

Fury: Bottom end = block and lower rotating assembly in this case. The 3400 Aluminum Heads from the 3400s used in GM N-Bodies (and others) made 180 HP from the factory with the FWD block, and flow MUCH better than the iron heads on the RWD 3.4 v6.

Things to look out for: the exhaust manifold bolts are slightly different (I think they're farther apart) so 3.4 exhaust manifold don't bolt up. Get somebody to make you a flange and build your own headers

.

Since the aluminum heads were never used in a RWD application, I would imagine that the mounts points for engine accessories will be different, so custom bracketry will most likely have to be fabricated.
[ Edited on 06/07/2007 @ 12:59:33 ]

Posted By: Fury_786 On: 06-07-2007 @ 17:21:30 Reply | Top | Edit

yeah...i get what a bottom end is. your statement was not worded as to elude that the heads would compliment the short block components of the engine.

although, alum. heads on an iron block can give you major problems. if someone were to get a set, they would need have to have them milled and get the block decked, in order to be sure that the mating surfaces would seal.
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2002 Camaro M5, [Whisper Lid] [K&N] [Flowmaster] [Exedy Clutch Kit] [B&M Shifter] [BMR Strut Tower Brace] [PCMforLess tune] [100 shot EFI wet kit]
[Pacesetter headers] [Lakewood LCA's] [Poly Trans Mount] [180* Thermo] [No Cat] [Accel Wires][Electric Cutout] [Springtech 1.75" drop] [free air mods] [Optima Red Top (in trunk) ] [275-40 Sumitomos]

Posted By: squisher On: 06-19-2007 @ 10:53:55 Reply | Top | Edit

Alum heads on an iron block were a GM mainstay for a while. The 3400 itself is an iron block with aluminum heads, so really nothing special going on there, just make sure the gasket surfaces are properly flat and clean and it ought to be fine.

So, even with different thermal expansion rates, GM has been getting away with aluminum heads on iron blocks for a while.

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