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| Free Ram-Air Mod (original idea by Idea by Karl Witt) |
| Category: |
Air Induction |
| Difficulty: |
2 |
| Approximate Time: |
1 hour |
| Application(s): |
98+ LS1 |
| Added By: |
Jim_Hogan |
| Last Updated: |
2003-02-23 13:46:52 |
| Views |
26445 |
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Tools Needed:
Flathead Screwdriver
Cut-off tool (Dremel or the like)
Parts Needed:
None.
Purpose:
This Free Ram-Air mod is thanks to Karl Witt and no other.
The stock air intake on the 1998 LS1-powered F-Bodies leaves a lot to be desired from a performance standpoint. If you look carefully, air enters through a 3/4" high opening. But that's not the problem. The problem is that the only air that gets to that opening has to come through the nose of the car. It wouldn't be so bad if the hood latch didn't block it off almost completely.
The principle behind this modification is to get as much cool air into the motor as possible. Since these cars have aggressive noses, air gets to the radiator via an airdamn under the car. Well, lucky for us, there is a gap between the metal crossmember at the front of the car and the radiator. By cutting away part of the plastic covering that gap, then opening up the bottom of the airbox, we're allowing in substantially more air than was possible before.
Okay, now you're probably asking, "Well, why didn't they just do this from the factory?" While I can't say for sure, I have some good ideas. First, noise. See that big ugly black squarish thing stuck to the back of the airbox that branches out on each side? That's an air silencer. It quiets the air going into the car by slowing it down. With this modification, we're increasing airflow severalfold, so it will make more noise. Now, you may or may not hear it (I doubt you will), but to me, it's worth it for the power gain.
Another reason this probably wasn't done at the factory is because the LS1 motor is already a very powerful motor. All the ones in F-Bodies dynoed to date are making in excess of 280 hp at the rear wheels. That equates to approx. 330 hp at the motor, well above the 305 hp rating. This modification, if used with a K&N filter, is probably worth 10-15 more hp. GM doesn't want the F-Body being faster than it's flagship, the Corvette, so it would rather leave stuff like this to aftermarket tuners, or us, the enthusiastic public.
ThIS "free ram-air mod" is simple; you just need to be willing to do some cutting on your brand-new car. Don't worry, it's all plastic and all easily and inexpensively replaced if you make a mistake. Nevertheless, I'll state the standard disclaimer now: The information contained herein is for educational purposes only. I assume absolutely no responsibility for what you do with this information. If you choose to perform these modifications to your own car, do so at your own risk. Fair? Okay, let's begin.
How - To:
Step 1
Unlatch the two metal clips holding the front of the airbox in place.
Using a slotted screwdriver, gently pry up the center tee of each of the two black plastic retaining clips on either side of the air silencer.
Using the same screwdriver, loosen the clamp that holds the flexible rubber intake tube to the throttle body.
Unplug the connectors to the Mass Airflow Sensor and Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Lift up on the airbox assembly and gently pull the intake air tube off of the throttle body. This piece is now totally disconnected from the car, so set it aside.
Step 2
Remove the air filter and tray.
Step 3
Remove the four gray-colored 10mm bolts that hold the large black plastic radiator retainer/airbox bottom to the crossmember. Remove the retainer and set aside for now.
Step 4
In front of the radiator is a pliable piece of black plastic with a slit in it, making something resembling a flap. Cut out this flap.
Step 5
Cut away part of the bottom of the retainer/airbox bottom so that it matches what you cut out of the radiator flap piece. See example in photo.
Step 6
Replace radiator retainer/airbox bottom and reinstall 10mm screws.
Step 7
Replace the air filter tray. Ensure that it snaps into the airbox bottom, otherwise the airbox clamps won't clamp shut.
Step 8
Replace the air filter. Now is a good time to install your K&N OEM replacement filter, K&N Part No. 33-2014.
Step 9
Replace the top airbox/silencer assembly. The intake tube will slip right back on the throttle both without any problems. Replace the retainer clips. Ensure that the airbox fits in properly, and that the notches in the rear of it are properly aligned. Clamp it shut with the silver clamps.
Reconnect Mass Airflow Sensor and Intake Air Temporature Sensor connectors.
Step 10
Apply obligatory K&N Warning Sticker.
Comments:
THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR QUESTIONS!!
Questions should be posted on the message board or emailed to the person who created this guide. Comments should ONLY be used to add information such as notes and more information for poorly edxplained steps or notes on parts/tools/steps etc.
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