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Back To Install Guide List

SLP LS1 1.85 Rocker Arm Installation
Category:  Internal Engine
Difficulty:  5
Approximate Time:  3 hours
Application(s):  98 LS1
Added By:  Jim_Hogan
Last Updated:  2003-01-18 20:35:31
Views  16894

Tools Needed:
1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchets
3/8 drive 10mm deep 6pt socket
3/8 drive 10mm 6pt socket
short 3/8 drive extensions (1 or 2)

1/4 or 3/8 drive 8mm deep socket
Torque wrench that can torque to 22lb ft

GM Fuel disconnect tool (3/8 is the size)

Parts Needed:
SLP 1.85 Rockers
New Valve Cover gaskets (you can re-use the old ones, I did - some vasaline helps get the gasket back in the valve cover)
New AIR Tube gaskets (I re-used my olds ones, you shouldn't really)

Purpose:
Increase the amount of lift by changing from the factory 1.7 rockers to the SLP 1.85 rockers. To calculate your new lift, divide your current cam's lift by 1.7 and multiply by 1.85. IE:
old lift / 1.7 * 1.85 = new lift
example: .500 / 1.7 * 1.85 = .544 lift

How - To:
Step 1
Remove the AIR Tubes
You will be able to use the deep 10mm socket to get the driver's side air tube off of the header. Once the two bolts for the air tube are removed, just push the air tube up and back out of the way.
On the passenger side, use the deep 10mm socket to remove the bolt closest to the motor. Use the short 10mm socket to remove the bolt closest to the fender as you can't fit a deep 10 in there. Again, just move the air tube out of the way.


Step 2
Disconnect plug wires/coil pack connector/PVC lines
On the 98 LS1, there is a single connection to the coils. It is a large white connection in the middle of the valve cover. Slide the blue safety pin out, lift the tab and disconnect the coil packs from both sides of the motor.

Disconnect the plug wires from the coil packs. You can just pull them off of the coil pack carefully. Let them hang, no need to pull the wires off of the plugs.

On the driver's side, remove the PCV line from the back of the valve cover. There is an L shaped hard plastic peice that extends out from the valve cover, the line can be disconnected at the top of the L

On the passenger side, you need to remove the line on the front of the valve cover and a second line towards the back. They simply pull straight off.


Step 3
Remove teh passenger side valve cover
START WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE!

You need to remove the fuel lines to complete the driver's side so it's best to get one side done before you start sniffing the 93 octane.

Begin loosening the bolts on the valve cover. There are 10 (I think - going from memory) bolts. THEY DO NOT COME OUT OF THE VALVE COVER. You'll need a combination of acrobatics, 10 mm sockets, nimble fingers, extensions and patience to get the back few bolts. Loosen the bolts and pull them up with your fingers. Once all of the bolts are loose and pulled up out of the head, lift the valve cover up and whoop there it is (ha, just wanted to type that).

The rockers are held down with 8mm bolts. Even though you only install them with 22lb ft of torque, it'll take some real effort to get them off. I used the 3/8 drive ratchet with a 3/8 -> 1/4 reducer with a 8mm socket just so that I could get enough torque without breaking anything. I think if you have a 3/8 drive 8mm, it'll be a bit easier. Remove the factory rockers and put them to the side. Store the bolts in a safe/clean place, you'll need to reuse those.


Step 4
Install the SLP Rockers
I don't know if you really have to, BUT, I presoaked the rockers in some Mobil 1 oil just to get them lubed up before I installed them. Since there is no motor oil on them or any lubrication, I figured it'd be best for my motor to have some oil in the valvetrain before I install them. I highly suggest you do the same, but what do I know.

One by one install the rockers back into the head. I put the bolts in finger tight and then used the torque wrench for the rest. You don't want to over torque the bolts, that'd be a bad thing. Also, the LS1 rockers don't need to have any lash adjustments or anything made, just torque it down and you're done. The service manual says 11 lb ft + 90 degrees - The final spec turns out to be between 22-25 ft lbs. Again, I set my 1/2" drive torque wrench to 25lbs with the 1/2 -> 3/8 -> 1/4 adapters and my 8mm wrench and figured that's close enough as I would lose some torque through the adapters. Again, if you have the right tools handy, 22lb ft is the right spec.

Reinstall the passneger side valve cover. Its the opposite of removal. The valve cover bolts don't need to be supermaned down, they don't hold anything really. The service manual says 106 ft in ( NOT lb FT!) which means not a whole lot, again just tight enough.

If the valve cover gaskets give you a hard time, you can fill the groove for the gasket in the valve cover with vasoline and then press the gasket into place. The vasoline will hold the gasket in place and boil off with heat. Its a neat trick.

You should end up putting the bolts in, reconnecting 4 plug wires, reconnect 2 pcv hoses, reconnect the coil pack connector and reconnect the AIR tube. The pass side is done.


Step 5
Now the driver's side
You'll want to crack open a window since you'll be spilling some fuel. Use a rag and the shrader (spelling?) valve on the fuel rail to remove the pressure from the fuel system. The rag should catch most of the fuel. Now look where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail towards the back of the motor. Slide the rubber gasket off of the connection by pushing it forward (ie, if you are standing on the driver's side, push the rubber gasket towards the passenger side. Now slide the fuel disconnect tool into the connection, push the line forward over the tool and then pull the whole thing back. Some fuel will spill, thats ok for now.

Now remove the fuel line from the EVAP canister. It is a plastic connection that you need to squeeze the tabs and pull. DO NOT PULL UP, IT WILL BREAK THE CANISTER, ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS IF YOU DOUBT ME. The hose pulls back (ie looking at the side of the motor from the driver's side, you need to squeeze the tabs and slide the line straight towards the back of the car.

Put a plastic bag over the fuel lines and over the fuel rail. You really don't want to drip fuel directly into the valve cover nor do you want to sniff gas while you work on the driver's side.

Everything should now be out of the way - plug wires, pcv line, air tube, fuel lines. loosen/pull up the valve cover bolts and take the valve cover off. There's the rockers!

Use the same proceedure. Remove the old, presoak the new, put them in finger tight and torque them down.


Step 6
Reconnect everythingo on the drivers side, double check all of your work, and start her up. When you start it, watch for any new SES lights, low oil lights or no oil pressure. If you get any of those, shut it down and figure it out. It'll be best to have a friend around to make sure no oil is leaking from the valve cover. If you see some smoke, assume it's some oil you dripped out of the valve cover or rockers while installing them. If it keeps smoking for hours, then worry and look for a bolt you didn't torque down.

The installation took me about 3 hours start to finish but I've done it before to check my springs and pushrods. Don't rush to set any new records, take your time and do it right. Besides, you can post you did it in an hour even if it takes 6 hours, this is the internet so it has to be true!



Comments:

THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR QUESTIONS!!
Questions should be posted on the message board or emailed to the person who created this guide. Comments should ONLY be used to add information such as notes and more information for poorly edxplained steps or notes on parts/tools/steps etc.




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If it looks (c) it probably is - All work done by Jim Hogan