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| Moser 12 Bolt Rear Installation |
| Category: |
Drivetrain |
| Difficulty: |
7 |
| Approximate Time: |
8 hours |
| Application(s): |
LS1 (and LT1 cars) |
| Added By: |
Jim_Hogan |
| Last Updated: |
2001-08-10 23:37:04 |
| Views |
16176 |
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Tools Needed:
Press - to press bearings onto axles
Hammer
Wrench/Ratchet Set
Pry bar
Maybe a grinding tool to make your aftermarket torque arm fit on the housing
U-Joint installation/removal tool - of course you can jsut pull the pin and tap them out with a hammer :)
FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR - YOU NEED TORQUE SPECS FOR BOLTS RIGHT??
Parts Needed:
Moser 12 bolt - accept no other, especially a KTRE. included should be:
2 axles
2 bearings
2 spacers
4 quarts of 80W-90 Gear Oil - DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC GEAR OILS!
1 4oz tube of GM gear additive
Cross over U-joint for your car. If you have the stock driveshaft a Spicer 447X or NAPA 447X crossover joint will do it. If you are getting a custom driveshaft made, you need to be sure to get a 1350 joint on the 12 bolt side
MOST IMPORTANT - GET A FRIEND OR TWO TO HELP, THIS REAR IS HEAVY!
Purpose:
Ditch that broke 10 bolt of yours and replace it with a quality Moser product.
How - To:
Step 1
Gather your tools parts and f-buds and try to find a lift. My local ARMY base allows us to rent a bay for a small fee - if this option is not available to you, don't sweat it, just jack up the car high enough to slide rears in and out and be sure to support the car well FROM THE FRAME, not the rear since you want to remove the rear.
Disconnect the basic suspension goodies. Pull the sway bar first since it's easy and in the way. then pull the panhard rod since its also easy and in the way. Unbolt the shocks and pull the springs out. Be sure they don't "spring" out and poke you in the eye now. Remove the torque arm from the rear - BE CAREFUL!! WITH THE SHOCKS AND TORQUE ARM OFF - YOUR REAR WILL TRY TO SWING BACKWARDS and will KNOCK YOU THE F**K OUT!!
Step 2
Pull that rusted stock 10 bolt junk out of there and celebrate! Don't kick it off of the nearest ledge yet, you need to get your stock brake backing plates off of it first.
Remove the cover from the rear - nasty stinky gear oil will leak out so drain this above a catch pan and try not to let the fumes hurt you or your helpers.
With the cover off, pull the pin on the C-clip and laugh at what holds your axles in. With the clip removed, pull your stock axles out and slide the brake backing plates off.
Take one more look at your 10 bolt and then throw it away... ok maybe you want to hang on to it a little longer 
Step 3
Every torque arm is a PITA to get back on the rear and may need some "work". For example, my BMR torque arm mounting bracket was a little too large for the 12 bolt, we took it over the grinding wheel and Ed fixed that right up. A little off of the corners was all it took. I hear a stock arm needs no modification but most aftermarket ones do. Now is also a good time to check that ALL 4 threaded bolt holes line up and you can get all 4 bolts in at the same time. If you wait until the rear is up in the air under the car, it'll be a PITA. We had to widen/move a few holes on my BMR torque arm to get it to line up properly.
Step 4
(That's me on the left jacking off - hehe)
Next was getting the u-joint removed from the stock driveshaft and putting the new one in. Because we had to run out to get the u-joint (what a story that was), we had the stock u-joint removed while at NAPA. If you didn't want to make a run for it, pull the pins/clips and bang them out like any ghetto racer would. It's aluminum so you shouldn't have to worry about the shaft and joint being rusted together. Grab your favorite clamp and work the new Spicer/NAPA 447X u-joint into place. You can't go to far or the clips won't snap in. Really pretty easy. BTW - I'm the goofy looking one on the left
Step 5
Now to put the axles together. You need to go back to your stock gear (I hope the garbage men didn't come yet) and with the axles removed, pull the brake backing places off of the stock axles. the brake backing plates are the things in Kevin's hands. Your axles will be bolted to the brake backing plates with the Tee-Bolts Moser should have included. Note that you'll need 8 (either) 3/8" SEA Grade 8 Fine thread nuts for the Tee-Bolts. The pictures shows how to assemble the axles. Axle, Brake backing plate, spacer, bearing, press ring. The gasket on the bearing goes towards the outside (near the wheel) and you only use one spacer, not both. I had those directions from moser to help out, if you didn't get directions, call Tech support and ask them to fax you a copy, they were helpful for me, but I jsut gave you the procedure so it's good enough right?
Step 6
Again, I was rather spoiled since John got us access to a lift and machine shop, you may need to head to your local machine shop (any auto shop should do) and have them press the bearing on. Why doesn't Moser do this? Good question, here is why - you need brake backing plates - the brake backing plate doesn't fit over the bearing, infact, it holds the bearing in. With the bearing pressed on from Moser, you'd have no way of getting a backing plate on there. NOT A BIG DEAL - like I said, any shop should be able to do this for you, just make sure they let you assemble it and you get it assembled RIGHT before pressing. Now is a good time to have your other f-buddy grab some contact cleaner or brake clean and really give the inside of the axles where the bearing goes a good cleaning. the bearing gasket needs to seal against the axle so it should be super clean.
Step 7
Next, with the bearing pressed on, and the axles cleaned good, stick the axle shaft into the rear. It should slide in most of the way for you. you'll have to rotate it some to line up the splines and slide it on home. Mine didn't go in ALL of the way on it's own which is normal.
Step 8
A few love taps with the wooden end of a hammer and it was there. I would think a rubber hammer would work better but we on limited tools. The bearing seal should be in the housing and you should be able to get those Tee-bolts we talked about and bolt the backing plates to the housing. Moser sent me some C shaped things that I assumed went on the end of the housing between the housing and plates, but then the bolts weren't long enough - I suggest you call Moser and find out what they are supposed to be used for, I didn't use them but may not be safe right now, go figure
Step 9
Put some gear oil back in and follow the break in procedure that Moser recommends. Drop the car to the ground and test it. You did remember to double check my instrustions and make sure everything is reconnected right?
Comments:
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Questions should be posted on the message board or emailed to the person who created this guide. Comments should ONLY be used to add information such as notes and more information for poorly edxplained steps or notes on parts/tools/steps etc.
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