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| Cooling Fan On/Off Switch |
| Category: |
Electrical |
| Difficulty: |
4 |
| Approximate Time: |
1 hour |
| Application(s): |
LT1/LS1 |
| Added By: |
Jim_Hogan |
| Last Updated: |
2001-08-25 13:13:58 |
| Views |
15891 |
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Tools Needed:
Battery Disconnect Tool
Wire Cutter/Stripper
Small Flat Head Screw Driver
Drill depending on how you choose to mount your switch
Parts Needed:
On/Off toggle switch
20 feet of 14 gauge wire (you probably could use less but better to have extra right)
Purpose:
This modification will allow you to operate both low speed cooling fans at any time with just the flip of a switch. The normal operation of the cooling fans will not be effected.
Since the battery will be disconnected, the radio security code will need to be re-entered in order for the radio to operate. Check your owners manual, and know your code BEFORE removing battery power.
How - To:
Step 1
Disconnect things:
Disconnect battery ground wire - it's the black wire going to your battery. You don't want to get a shock or short anything do you?
Then disconnect battery positive (hot wire) at the rear fuse box on the drivers side engine compartment fuse panel. It has a red plastic cover on it.
Step 2
Remove the cover off of this panel and remove the "Fan # 1" relay. It is the closest one to the engine and marked "Fan #1" on the fuse panel cover. This 3/4" X 3/4" relay is made of plastic, so be careful not to break it. Large needle nose pliers work good. Also, remember exactly which way it will go back in.
Pull the fuse panel out of its cradle. There will be a plastic tab on the rear of the fuse panel that will need to be pried with a flat-tipped screwdriver in order to lift the panel out of its cradle. The cradle is a 3 sided box.
Step 3
Remove the fuse panel cover on the drivers side instrument panel. You will see it when you open the door.
Remove the drivers side kick panel (under the steering wheel). It is attached with 2 screws and 2 small nut bolts
Step 4
Back to the engine compartment fuse panel. The panel has been lifted out of its cradle. You will note that there is a large light blue wire running into the bottom of the panel where the relay has been removed. Strip a length of 14 gauge wire (at least 6' long) and insert it into the bottom of panel, so as to make contact with the blue wire's terminal and the fan relay when its pushed back in. Push the relay back in insuring that the 14 gauge wire now makes contact with that circuit.
Slide a section of rubber tubing over this wire. This will hide the wire, and make the installation look "factory".
Snap fuse panel back into its cradle.
Step 5
Route the tubing with wire in it along the large Air Pump Supply tubing which runs back along the drivers side fender well. Attach this tubing together with plastic wire ties. Cut and terminate the use of the tubing that you added, at a point that the wire will go under the hood bracket, below the windshield, and through the door opening at the door hinges. It is impossible to run this wire through the firewall. Then run the wire under the doors most forward rubber molding. Exit the wire where the plastic trim pieces come together next the the instrument panel fuse box. Run the wire through the side of the fuse box and terminate in the area of the lower kick panel.
Step 6
Run a short piece of 14 gauge wire from a 12 volt power source. You can find one if you look straight back from the center of the kick panel opening. You will see a small square open connector with a heavy gauge red wire going into it. You can verify this with a voltmeter. I crimped a wire spade on my short wire and pushed it into this terminal. This wire is "hot" at all times.
Run these 2 wires into a non-grounded on-off switch of at least 15 amps rating. I got mine from Radio Shack. I also crimped 2 female spade connectors on to these wires. Then they just slipped onto the switch.
Step 7
Some people choose to drill a hole in their kickpanel and mount the switch under the steering wheel. I personally choose to drill a hole in the black plastic ash tray since I don't smoke nor do I have any other use for an ash try. Additionally, with the cover close, the switch is hidden so no one gets any funny ideas. I know a few people who also mount a switch for an electric water pump in this location right next to the fan switch.
Run the wire either to you hole in the kickpanel or behind the kickpanel and under the console.
Step 8
Be sure to get the switch connected properly. My first switch had a light which required a ground, my second switch does not have a ground. Depending on what exactly you pickup, you will need to figure out how and where to route your wires so that it works for you. Be very careful not to cross any wires or forget to reconnect things. Take your time and use common sense when dealing with electronics. the mod is actually very simple - after watching someone else do the modification to my car, and then doing this mod on a friends 01 Z28, I can tell you it gets easier everytime.
With the cooling fans on, my car sits at the thermostat temperature and doesn't move.
Step 9
For the record - Thanks to Ron Larson who originally told me how to do this mod WAY back in the day now (maybe late december of 97?) while posting at ls1.com when Hutch was the admin there. I haven't seen or heard from Hutch or Ron in years (maybe since March or so of 98?) If anyone has heard from these guys or knows how to contact them - let me know - I bet they would be impressed to see how much I've learned about my car and cars in general since I first got this car  Thanks guys!
Comments:
THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR QUESTIONS!!
Questions should be posted on the message board or emailed to the person who created this guide. Comments should ONLY be used to add information such as notes and more information for poorly edxplained steps or notes on parts/tools/steps etc.
| Posted By: kostya_f | Last Updated:2002-11-12 23:28:31 |
| As noted, make sure to use a high-current switch. I measured the current, and it spikes to 43A at turn on, then drops to 3A constant. |
| Posted By: The_Beast | Last Updated:2003-01-18 00:51:26 |
| I know a place where you can buy an entire wiring harness to do this right at. It comes with a switchj and everything. It just plugs into The fan harness. I have one in Mine and it works great. ITs about 50 bucks. If you want to dish out the cash to do it right, I suggest you do this. But if not, Then do the mod above, Its up to you. The website is www.afterthoughtsauto.com |
| Posted By: trigger | Last Updated:2003-05-16 15:08:16 |
| Be aware that using a constant-hot 12v source puts potential current at the switch at all times. This isn't the greatest idea, as a switch failure while you're away from your car would almost certainly cause a fire. Use a 12v source that is switched with the ignition, or utilize a time delay relay that cuts current to the fan after the ignition has been off for several minutes. Bosch makes the relay you need. |
| Posted By: AngelEyes | Last Updated:2003-06-24 08:53:30 |
| I actually added an in-line fuse on the hot wire. That way, if it's gonna burn up anything, it just pops the fuse before it gets to the switch. The only problem is, 15 amp fuses aren't strong enough. I put a 30 in and I'm hoping that holds, but if not, I'm going to use a 45 or 50, since it spikes 43 at turn on, like Kostya_F said. |
| Posted By: arcticz28 | Last Updated:2003-08-19 08:55:39 |
| i am also using a 30A and its been working fine so far |
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