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Long issue and nowhere else to turn. Please help!! Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-09-2009 @ 19:53:32 Reply | Edit I am going to start from the beginning here. It will probably be a long post but I am stuck and do not know where to go from here because it is giving me some wierd results from what has been done. I have a 96 firebird trans am WS6. About 6 months ago I was driving it and it just died on the side of the road and gave a MIL code of 1371. I figured it was the opti so i started there and changed it out. When i pulled it, it was pretty corroded so i figured that me changing it was a good call. I also changed out the water pump cause it was leaking from the weep hole and it probably what caused the opti to go out. The opti fixed it temporarily. About 20-50 miles later the car died again suddenly and gave the same code. I thought that maybe my opti was defective so i pulled it and changed it again with a brand new one. It fixed it again and I went on driving it. 20-50 miles later, it died again suddenly and threw the same 1371 code. This time i took it to the dealership and they shot it down to the opti again and replaced it for the third time with a brand new GM opti. It fixed it and i went on. 20-50 miles later...same thing and same code. It took it back to the dealer and they troubleshot the whole ignition system and said all checked good and they thought it must be my computer. They changed the computer and it fixed it. 20-50 miles later...same thing again with the same 1371 code. I have not idea what the heck it could be. Some of the symptoms are as follows. If i let the car sit for a while (overnight) it will crank and run just fine for maybe half an hour and then will die. Sometimes i can get it cranked back up if i pump the gas and other times i cannot. It is still throwing the 1371 code, but only intermittenly. If i clear the code and then crank it, it will idle to just fine and not give the code again....or sometimes if i clear the code and then crank it, it will give the code again immediately but will still crank. I would suspect a fuel delivery problem if I wasnt getting that 1371 code, but I cant figure out why that code is there. I know the opti is good and it has a brand new computer in it. I can also hear my fuel pump priming just fine when i go to start also. She is also smelling pretty rich whenever she dont crank...even if i dont even pump the gas. Please help if this makes any sense to you. I need to get the beast back on the road. BTW, i have 123000 miles on it as well. [ Edited on 06/09/2009 @ 20:08:37 ] [ Edited on 06/09/2009 @ 20:09:24 ] Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-09-2009 @ 20:04:37 Reply | Top | Edit my caps lock button is not broken [ Edited on 06/09/2009 @ 20:10:18 ] Posted By: jjdynomite 
On:
06-09-2009 @ 21:38:42 Reply | Top | Edit
P1371: DI Low Resolution Ckt Not sure what that is, don't have access to anything on my phone. This the code your getting? -- lsxltx.com Posted By: RoAdRaGe912 On: 06-10-2009 @ 05:12:49 Reply | Top | Edit Chill out with swapping distributors. Have you replaced the opti connector yet (part # 12130319)? It's pretty common for the connectors to get corroded. You may have simply not mentioned it, but there are only a handful of pieces from the origination of the signal to where it is being processed. --  Posted By: 95ttoplt1 On: 06-10-2009 @ 11:44:22 Reply | Top | Edit Gotta love the dealership fix, we can't figure it out, must be the PCM. I wouldn't have paid for either repairs as they have grossly misdiagnosed as you have the same symptoms. When it won't run what is missing? Spark or fuel. Its likely the corroded connector going into the opti, but you have to figure out why there is no combustion. The opti might not be the best piece but properly maintained they are very good and reliable. The problem is that it is suck a bitch to change the plugs and wires on a LT1 many neglect to change them until they go open and send a stray spark through the optics frying the opti. Or someone swaps in a cam with too long of a pin and grinds the rotor through the cap. There are instances of the rotor screws backing out but its certainly not the norm, and if you are only getting 50 miles out of them you obviously have a different problem that is causing the shortened opti life. --  Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 13:09:17 Reply | Top | Edit My Caps Lock Button Is Broken Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 13:13:40 Reply | Top | Edit Everytime i log in it says my caps lock is broken. Anyways...the dealership said that they checked the whole system having to do with the opti. I specifically asked about the connector and they said that it was good. I will tell you though that im pretty sure that i saw some corrosion in the pins...i am just not sure if it would cause the issue that im having. I am pretty sure that the opti is not bad because when it does run it runs great and this is the third brand new one put in. There was a full tuneup done on the car including plugs and wires around 75000 miles also. I have not checked to see if i have fuel pressure when it will not crank because i do not have a fuel pressure guage. I was planning on going and buying one this weekend though. I appreciate all the replied. If ya'll can think of anything else that can help me then please let me know. James Posted By: 94fireturd On: 06-10-2009 @ 13:21:41 Reply | Top | Edit replace that harness. Its $30 bux. 75000 miles ago? Time for a new tune up as well. -- 
1993 Z28: auto, 3.73's,LT4 HC, PCMforless, Hooker LT, 3" Y, single outlet 3" slowmaster w/cut-out,CAI, Tornado,MSD coil, TB bypass, 160* thermostat, !cat !EGR !AIR, SFC's, boxed LCA's & PHB, Heated o2 sensor conversion Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 13:23:24 Reply | Top | Edit Thats what I was thinking. I'll replace the harness and give her a tuneup and if I still have the issue then I will check the fuel pressure whenever it wont crank and take it from there. Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 13:33:24 Reply | Top | Edit I just called the dealer and they want $71 for that dang connector. I have already sank so much money into trying to get this car running again due to this same issue. 3 optis and a computer. Is there anyway that i can test that connector when the car is not starting for me, before I drop more cash on it? Posted By: RoAdRaGe912 On: 06-10-2009 @ 15:10:04 Reply | Top | Edit If the problem is intermittant, then there is no good way to check it. Just because you can get good continuity across the connector doesn't mean it won't/can't cause you problems. I'm not one to throw money at a problem with parts just to fix it (unlike you and the dealership). You say that you are pretty sure you saw some corrosion in the pins. I brought this up as the likely issue before you mentioned it and now you don't want to thrown down $70? If it's not that connector (which it most likely is) then you've got a wiring harness issue, and it's not likely to have a wiring harness issue that is isolated to that signal only. -- Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 15:13:29 Reply | Top | Edit Im tracking you...and i dont mind throwing down the money for the part (obviously), i just wanted to see if there was anyway to test it. Do you think that because I am getting that code that it has to be something with the distributor system...versus a fuel problem. Not flaming...just wondering. That would solve one of my headaches right there if i knew that i didnt have to worry about a fuel delivery problem. Posted By: RoAdRaGe912 On: 06-10-2009 @ 15:44:04 Reply | Top | Edit No, because you are getting the code you HAVE a distributor system issue. A distributor system problem EXISTS. Is it causing your car to die? Maybe not, but I'll tell you that if I get shit on from above, look up and see a bird flying over, I'm not going to go blame my dog for it. Fuel-Air-Compression-Spark- all at the correct times will net you proper combustion. Fuel is extremely easy to test, and you have an obvious issue on the spark end, so that's where I'm starting. If you want to do some cheap and easy fuel system testing before replacing the connector then go for it. If it is a fuel issue causing the car to die, then you will still be throwing the same code and probably experiencing random misfires. I can only work with what you give me. From your initial post it sounds (to me) that the car is dying and you are getting a code at the same time. I don't have the OBD-II service manual so I can't go in and look to see if/when the SES is lit for this code, so I have to make a few assumptions. So, your car keeps dying AND throwing a distributor signal code. Seems like a pretty straight forward place to start is with the distributor system. The distributor, and signal processor have been replaced. If the problem is not at one end or the other, then it is in between. Don't mind me, I'm working nights right now and I'm an asshole even when I get enough sleep. -- Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-10-2009 @ 15:55:44 Reply | Top | Edit haha. I was thinking the same thing too about the distributor issue. The code is the whole reason that i didnt want to go straight to fuel delivery. Your right too about there not being much in that system that could give that code. Pretty much just the opti, connector, and the pcm. Opti and PCM have been changed so that only leaves one thing left. thanks and dont worry...i like to hear it like it is. Posted By: 95ttoplt1 On: 06-11-2009 @ 11:38:34 Reply | Top | Edit Also the fact that it will run for about 50 miles sounds like a bad connection to me. If the resitance is already high in that plug, it will only get worse as the temp increases. To the point where it can't get a signal through to the ECM and then it dies. Let it cool off and it'll start right back up I'd imagine. -- Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-11-2009 @ 11:44:48 Reply | Top | Edit Your exactly right. It almost always starts right up if i let it cool off long enough. Posted By: 95transamwhip On: 06-12-2009 @ 11:22:46 Reply | Top | Edit Replace the connector and you'll be good to go. If ur still in the corps navy fed got a new cash rewards card thatll help with some extra money -- 95 Trans Am.. Lt1 manual t56.. Underdrive pulley, Msd ignition coil, Eddlebrock headers, Eddlebrock catback, Hurst Shifter, 4:10z. Scrapped 97 Trans Am.. Lt1 T56.. Bone Stock black t-top Posted By: Calaban007 On: 06-12-2009 @ 12:31:37 Reply | Top | Edit Could also be the coil. My IROC would get up to temp and I would shut it off. When I tried to start it back up it wouldn't start, just kept turning over. Turned out that when the coil got hot it would stop firing. The car wouldn't die or anything, but it woulds fire up when hot. Changed to the coil and bam, starts up like it should. -- 
1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion, CAI, SFC's & 1989 IROC-Z restoration in progress Posted By: RoAdRaGe912 On: 06-12-2009 @ 22:51:57 Reply | Top | Edit A coil doesn't explain the DTC. If it weren't for the DTC then suggestions would have been to start with the coil. -- Posted By: Calaban007 On: 06-12-2009 @ 22:56:35 Reply | Top | Edit True --
1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion, CAI, SFC's & 1989 IROC-Z restoration in progress Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-15-2009 @ 19:17:43 Reply | Top | Edit I ordered the harness today that has the electrical connector that goes into the optispark. It cost a decent penny and will be here in about three or four days. As soon as I get it in I will update you guys and let you know if it fixed it. Also just so you guys know...the connector has quite a bit of corrosion in it. I think this will do it. James [ Edited on 06/15/2009 @ 19:19:02 ] Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-17-2009 @ 21:30:38 Reply | Top | Edit I just wanted to let you guys know that I installed the new harness that goes from the distributor to the connector just right of the intake plenum on the engine. Im pretty sure that it fixed the problem. No codes and the car is running great! I ran it for about an hour and then took it on a test drive and all was good. Thanks for all the help! James Posted By: 95ttoplt1 On: 06-18-2009 @ 09:32:20 Reply | Top | Edit Thanks for reporting back. Alot of guys fix the problem and we never hear from them again. Then we have to explain it all again to the next guy 
Hopefully someone can find this with the search button later. -- Posted By: RoAdRaGe912 On: 06-18-2009 @ 09:41:24 Reply | Top | Edit sweetness. Hopefully this takes care of it. -- Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-18-2009 @ 09:47:31 Reply | Top | Edit Just more info for the next guy too. There was a revision to the harness that I replaced and the REV is not documented anywhere. The harness is identical except for the connector that connects to the rest of the harness (the one opposite of the distributor connector.) It is the same identical connector except for one minor difference. There are to plastic "dividors" on the inside of the male connector that line up with 2 slots on the inside of the female connector. They are there just to make sure that the connector is straight and doesnt bend any of the pins. The factory connector on my car (pre revision) only has one slot. All i had to do was shave of one of the little plastic dividors and it worked like a charm. If anyone wants pics, i can post some up later. Just let me know. It really blew my mind that there was a revision with nothing in the books and the dealership parts dept didnt even know. Posted By: Barnhart09 On: 06-27-2009 @ 15:28:39 Reply | Top | Edit Very useful information mine does the exact same thing! -- Red 1996 Z28 Camaro, 350cid LT1, Air Foil, Vortec Intake Elbow, K&N Cold-Air Intake, ACCEL Computer, 3:73 Gears, Hooker Super-Competition Headers, 3inch Xpipe With Flowmaster Mufflers,and BIGASS cam (don't know exact size),Runs MID 12's. Posted By: Barnhart09 On: 06-27-2009 @ 15:40:35 Reply | Top | Edit Oh and by the way, how much was the harness. -- Red 1996 Z28 Camaro, 350cid LT1, Air Foil, Vortec Intake Elbow, K&N Cold-Air Intake, ACCEL Computer, 3:73 Gears, Hooker Super-Competition Headers, 3inch Xpipe With Flowmaster Mufflers,and BIGASS cam (don't know exact size),Runs MID 12's. Posted By: usmc_jd On: 06-27-2009 @ 23:01:48 Reply | Top | Edit The harness was approximately 220 or so at the dealership. I got a military discount so it came out to about 175. I saw them on ebay though after I bought mine for like 50 bucks. I hope this helps.
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