[ Post New Message | Reply | Edit Profile | Register | Search | Current Connections | Message Board FAQ | Lost Password? ]

Hello everyone.

I'm working on fixing up my 95 Firebird Formula so I can get it back on the road. At the moment, I'm working on getting the passenger side window to stop leaking. Thankfully I've managed to get it to a point where only a very small amount of water will get through, but I can't help but notice a blaring problem w/ my door:





Anybody have any suggestions on what I can use to glue those two together?

Thanks,
Gary

There was a post on here a while back with this issue, but I couldn't find it on a search. If you know a body man you could ask him what you can use. I'm sure there's some kind of adhesive for this.

Good Luck
--

1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion, CAI, SFC's & 1989 IROC-Z restoration in progress

---

Posted By: GREENARROW On: 02-23-2009 @ 00:55:11     Reply | Top | Edit

---

I believe to do this properly, you need to remove the door skin and redo it. I've seen it done on mine and it doesn't look that hard, but I have no idea what they used. It looked like they just detacted the skin, roughed up both sides where they met, cleaned it all up and then spread this glue on both pieces. Then they waited an hour or two and fit the two pieces back together and used a strap clap to hold them together for a few hours. Like said above, ask a body shop guy what they use, then you can do it yourself.
--
GREENARROW 1st fbody - 87 Camaro 2.8, 2nd fbody - 96 TA (RIP)

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=423456 http://www.myspace.com/sandzman28
"95" 6-speed convertible Z with some stuff, "06" Yamaha 50th Ann. R1 with alot of goodies

---

Posted By: fasteddie94 On: 03-10-2009 @ 21:14:35     Reply | Top | Edit

---

Use a heat gun to heat the adhesive and gently pry it apart, anything flat will work. clean the old adheasive off by heating and peeling or grinding and rough up the bond area with 30 grit on a grinder. I use Fusor T10 epoxy at work, apply a thick bead to either the door or the skin and clamp them back together. Clean any excess that oozes out with solvent and you can either let is sit to cure on it's own or heat it. Use a heat gun, heat lamp, sit it in the sun on a hot day whatever but it'll cure in about 20min with heat and has a 45 min worktime. Without heat cure time is about 2 hrs @ 70*.

Just how I'd do it.
--

1999 NBM T/A A4 best et 12.75 @ 109
h/c and converter coming soon.

---

<< Previous Thread - Looks like my Opti. crapped out

Next Thread - Pace Setter LT ?'s >>

Reply to this Message

UserName: [ Not a member? Register here! ] Password: [ Edit Profile ] [ Logout ] Message: Check the box to be notified via e-mail when a reply is posted to this thread. Members who are logged in can enable the notify option without posting a message. Use Signature: #1 #2 #3 None

Back To Topic List