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Battery hold down

Posted By: dcamaroguy On: 05-30-2008 @ 14:19:42         Reply | Edit
I was getting ready to go to the track today and noticed my battery is loose. When I had it at the dealer tghey said the bolt snapped so they just put a bolt throught the bottom with a nut on it and now the battery is loose. Anybody using something other than that little piece of plastic from the factory?
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'95 Z: SLP Headers, SLP Loudmouth, Carsound cat,Hurst shifter,Lingenfelter CAI,
MSD coil,wires,& 6A ignition, SLP airfoil,Hotchkis STB, Granatelli SFC's, 3.73's,160 stat,
ported MAF,1LE elbow,LT4 KM, PCM for less, BMR LCA's & relo brackets, LT4 hotcam kit
http://www.fbody.com/members/dcamaroguy

Posted By: bigblocktransam On: 05-30-2008 @ 21:51:23     Reply | Top | Edit
there is nothing other than that, the battery sits on top of the coolent overflow tank and uses tabs thats built onto that to hold the battery on the back side then the other little clip holds the front side down, thats what all newer cars use. unless you want to pull the overflow tank out and use an old set up or mount the battery in the back of the car with a battery box thats what you got
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http://www.streetlethal.net 93 trans am, 12.26 @ 114.82 MPH stock motor 9 lbs
If you can read this thank a teacher, if it's in English thank a Soldier.

Posted By: 96zebra28 On: 05-31-2008 @ 02:20:18     Reply | Top | Edit
I hope this helps.

There is a plastic hook on the front of the coolant tank that broke off on my car. Instead of buying a new coolant tank, I took a piece of galvanized 1.5" wide steel strap and some rubber sheet and made a better hold down. For the back bolt I welded a threaded rod onto a coupling nut. Onto the coupling nut I welded a new metric bolt which holds the coolant tank down. This is all out of view of the pictures BTW. For the front bolt, I tapped the thing that looks like an insert and put a small bolt there.

Without a welder you could simply buy some metric threaded rod, 3 nuts of matching thread pitch, and use one nut to hold the tank down with the rod as a stud basically, and the other 2 to hold the strap.
Rubber sheet isn't necessary you could use tape on the strap or a few layers of shrink tube.
Since I wanted to go all-out Kal Kustom, I put some nifty wire loom on the threaded rod for a more professional look. This is an expensive project, I have all of $10 in materials.







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1996 Z28 M6: modified.

Posted By: dcamaroguy On: 05-31-2008 @ 17:18:19     Reply | Top | Edit
Thanks guys, I was looking at the insert in the front and wondering if there was a way to use it. I'm going to try and use this set up on my car. Thanks for the pictures.
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'95 Z: SLP Headers, SLP Loudmouth, Carsound cat,Hurst shifter,Lingenfelter CAI,
MSD coil,wires,& 6A ignition, SLP airfoil,Hotchkis STB, Granatelli SFC's, 3.73's,160 stat,
ported MAF,1LE elbow,LT4 KM, PCM for less, BMR LCA's & relo brackets, LT4 hotcam kit
http://www.fbody.com/members/dcamaroguy

Posted By: ryguy_45832 On: 05-31-2008 @ 20:17:37     Reply | Top | Edit
My last track appearance tech hastled me about my battery being loose because of the broken bolt. Just thought I'd let you know.
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94z28 13.0@109 (still tweaking) best 60ft:2.22


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