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Turbo Options

Posted By: DrInsane On: 07-27-2009 @ 09:18:30         Reply | Edit
Does anyone know a good turbo system to place on a LS1 engin? I've been looking at APS Twin Turbo and GenTTR Twin Turbo.

Earlier I read a horror story about someone that got a GenTTR and they gave him too small of a turbo and he couldn't get a refund. Also it looks like quite a few people pointed out the STS turbo, but I'm afraid of a speed bump knocking that one off.

Just looking for insite and if anyone knows pros and cons. I'm new to the forced induction game.


[ Edited on 07/27/2009 @ 10:22:43 ]

Posted By: Lukn4Trbl On: 07-28-2009 @ 02:16:14     Reply | Top | Edit
Nah, a speed bump wont knock off the STS; especially if you weld it (which you should).

Any kit out there will be enough to feed a stock
short block, street driven LS engine.

Don't worry too much about your options unless you're
changing pistons, heads, cam, etc.
--
Welcome to the Internet, where everyone's a mechanic and has a 10 second car.

2000 Camaro SS, 6 Speed, Black/Black. Going for low 12's!
1980 Z28 - Miss ya buddy!

Posted By: DrInsane On: 07-29-2009 @ 12:02:20     Reply | Top | Edit
Alright, better question. If my goal is 500 HP, is it better to go twin turbo or bolt on. With only a single turbo I'm wondering about throttle responce, but I'm not sure about the differences between the two. I'm not doing any serious racing so maybe that can be disregard.

Also comparing STS with APS's TT, it looks like alot more mods are needed for the STS to get numbers like that, but it still looks possible. So in the long run, I'm wonder which would make me happier and price differences. I don't want to get a bolt on and feel like I went cheap.

Posted By: NOTAZ28 On: 08-15-2009 @ 08:17:18     Reply | Top | Edit
A boosted car would probaly be more fun to drive. 500 hp can be accomplished relatively easy as long as you have the money for it. On an LS motor a heads/cam/intake set-up could yield your desired results but streetablity would be compromised. You would have to deal with poss. loading up at lights, power brake operation issues at idle etc.. I have been researching building a forced induction motor and I found that a twin motor spools faster than a single motor with the same size turbos. A twin motor would also have less lag between gears. The down side is they can cost nearly double because you need two of most parts. If you just want a forced induction set-up and don't care whether its turbo or supercharger I would recommend a roots style blower. It would be a little safer than a turbo on stock motor. Magnuson make a

Posted By: NOTAZ28 On: 08-15-2009 @ 08:42:44     Reply | Top | Edit
Sorry hit post button on sccident.
Magnuson makes varoius kits for LS series motors that will put a little above your goal and still maintain all of your streetability. A roots style blower will build boost almost directly of idle and will give you that crisp throttle response you are looking for. This type of supercharger will give you alot of low end torque, but will not give you as much high rpm horsepower as a turbo. That would be fine with a stock engine because you probaly won't see rpm's much higher than 6000 on a stock motor anyway. Any boosted car is fun to drive anyway and with 500 hp will not have any problem smoking the tires and going sideways. A forced induction car will feel faster than a n/a car because of the sudden rush of power.

1994 Camaro m-6, heads/cam/intake lt1
Shooting for mid to low 12's (traction dependant)

Posted By: Lukn4Trbl On: 08-19-2009 @ 03:45:02     Reply | Top | Edit
I'm going to disagree slightly. Although, you
could run into some issues with 500 HP N/A, a
good matched setup will get you there and still
maintain a very good idle and power accessories.

My car is putting down over 440 HP to the wheels
(detuned to allow traction down the strip) and
I'm getting about 28 MPG on the highway.

The car still breaks the rear end sideways
in second gear from a 40 MPH roll. 3rd gear
"chirp" and all. Throttle response is not a problem
from idle up to peak power.

Mind you, the heads WILL need some porting,
valve and seat work to get the flow needed.

This is an overlay of a track run before detuning
2nd gear. The red line shows a one second slip of
the tires, enough to fish tail the back end at nearly 55 MPH.

Black line is 12.51 1/4 mile pass, with a touch
of wheel spin shifting into second and third gear:


Dyno graph of 12.51 tune, 2.10 sec. 60 foot (street tire):

--
Welcome to the Internet, where everyone's a mechanic and has a 10 second car.

2000 Camaro SS, 6 Speed, Black/Black. Going for low 12's!
1980 Z28 - Miss ya buddy!

[ Edited on 08/19/2009 @ 03:48:42 ]

Posted By: NOTAZ28 On: 08-19-2009 @ 21:11:26     Reply | Top | Edit
I was just saying that was a possibility with a N/A car at that power level. My car loads up alittle with prolonged driving below 2000 rpms, but a quick blip of the throtle fixes that. Other than that my car functions like it did when I first swapped to a LT1 besides loping and being alot louder. I am personally in favor of forced induction, but a N/A setup can be cheaper depending on how its done. Thats how I ended up eith one. I have not been to the dyno yet because I am still working on the tune. May not be as potent as your setup but I am hoping for over 400 at the wheels.

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