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Speakers and Door Panels Posted By: cochran191 On: 08-20-2008 @ 21:06:29 Reply | Edit Well I replaced the two mids behind the front seats and now I have to replace the ones in the doors because I found that the drivers side is blown and the passengers side is sounding funny. What is the easiest was to get these out? I figured taking the door panels off but I've never had to do that so I'm unsure of exactly how to do it. -- 99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch Posted By: 00TATexas On: 08-21-2008 @ 09:09:27 Reply | Top | Edit Have a shop do it -- 2000 TA, Bright Red, Air box lid, Borla 3-inch catback SS adjustable, K&N filters. 98 Suburban 4X4 SLT, 97 jeep Wrangler 4X4 Soft Top. Posted By: cochran191 On: 08-21-2008 @ 12:15:05 Reply | Top | Edit That's really not an option right now. I just need to know how many screws are holding it in and where they are located and I can do the rest myself. -- 99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch Posted By: BernBern On: 08-21-2008 @ 17:50:08 Reply | Top | Edit keep in mind that you ***NEED*** to rewire the entire car or bypass the factory amp by the spare tire if you are getting any other speakers other than those infinity kappas (i dont have the exact model number handy). aftermarket speakers will sounds like crap with a stock setup, in addition to blowing up the channels to your stock amp.. with that said, you need to remove the entire door panel to get these speakers out. this is a very easy job as long as you know where all the screws are on the door frame. http://www.lastofthebreed.com/Installs/DoorPanelWriteUp/DoorPanel.htm should provide additional assistance. if you are planning on using any other speakers, and need to rewire, i'd suggest researching a little more into it before jumping in. i had to rewire my entire car (and wound up costing me a good $2000 and hours in my time) i regret not simply replacing the door panels with the infinity speakers and just keeping the stock amp Peace! -- Performance: Cold Air, K&N, SLP Lid, Smooth Bellows, Hooker Exhaust Bling: Erebuni Body Kit, JL 10W3 Stealth Sub, Pioneer Premiere Head Unit 
Posted By: BernBern On: 08-21-2008 @ 17:52:55 Reply | Top | Edit just got the speaker models, but double check before you buy. The 2 ohm Infinity kappa 62.7i(2 way) and 63.7i(3 way) -- Performance: Cold Air, K&N, SLP Lid, Smooth Bellows, Hooker Exhaust Bling: Erebuni Body Kit, JL 10W3 Stealth Sub, Pioneer Premiere Head Unit
Posted By: cochran191 On: 08-21-2008 @ 17:55:51 Reply | Top | Edit I found another model number on another website, but its 652.7i, but that was on a 98. I'll check those out too. -- 99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch Posted By: cochran191 On: 08-21-2008 @ 18:04:16 Reply | Top | Edit I can't find anywhere else that says I have to buy those exact speakers just that I have to buy 2ohm speakers and not the normal 8ohm ones. -- 99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch Posted By: badSol On: 08-21-2008 @ 18:12:39 Reply | Top | Edit 2 ohms will work, but they'll sound like ass with the factory amp. -- 
1999 Trans Am M6, FRA, K&N, Skip Shift bypass, SLP Radiator, LS1 Motorsports lid, LS1 Motorsports Smooth Bellows Flowtech Long Tube Headers, Lane's Custom True Duals: Dr Gas X-Pipe, 12" Dynomax Bullets, Hotchkis STB, Pro 5.0 Textralia OZ700 clutch, billet steel flywheel, 334.6 rwhp 345.6 rwtq, 2001 Trans Am A4, SLP LM2 - RIP Posted By: cochran191 On: 08-21-2008 @ 18:15:16 Reply | Top | Edit Why would they sound like ass if that is what is in there now? I know the ones that are in there aren't the greatest but they are better than none at all. -- 99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch Posted By: BernBern On: 08-29-2008 @ 16:01:32 Reply | Top | Edit cochran you also have you keep in mind the dimension of the speaker fits correctly. 2ohm speakers wont "sound like ass". The monsoon factory amp is more than decent. best bang for the buck you are best off just getting replacement infinities. unless you are into performance audio, or trying to excel your hearing loss, just keep the amp you have. badSol is probably just the type that likes 5000W systems that can be heard from 5 miles away so he can get attention from the girlies 
-- Performance: Cold Air, K&N, SLP Lid, Smooth Bellows, Hooker Exhaust Bling: Erebuni Body Kit, JL 10W3 Stealth Sub, Pioneer Premiere Head Unit
Posted By: badSol On: 08-29-2008 @ 17:12:55 Reply | Top | Edit I actually run all the stock speakers except for the sub (which I've replaced with a 10 in a stealthbox, nothing special, nothing that rattles everyone for miles). The stock Monsoon amp really isn't that great, maybe you'll be happy with the speakers you bought, just don't come back complaining later if they're not what they were cracked up to be. --
1999 Trans Am M6, FRA, K&N, Skip Shift bypass, SLP Radiator, LS1 Motorsports lid, LS1 Motorsports Smooth Bellows Flowtech Long Tube Headers, Lane's Custom True Duals: Dr Gas X-Pipe, 12" Dynomax Bullets, Hotchkis STB, Pro 5.0 Textralia OZ700 clutch, billet steel flywheel, 334.6 rwhp 345.6 rwtq, 2001 Trans Am A4, SLP LM2 - RIP
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