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That would happen to me in my '95 firebird, I had to unhook a battery cable from the battery, wait a few minutes, then hook it back up. That always worked, sometimes if I wet the resistor a little it would work so that I wouldn't have to unhook the battery.
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99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-27-2008 @ 10:37:52     Reply | Top | Edit

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So in your case it was due to the key/resistor. I unhooked the battery and hooked it back up (without waiting for a few minutes) and it didn't start.

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-27-2008 @ 16:54:01     Reply | Top | Edit

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Thanks cochran!

I recall that my last TA (96) also had a similar isue at times and I had to wait for some amount of time before trying to it start again when the security light flashed, possibly due to some built in timer. Anyone know for how long that time is set for? 5 minutes? 10 minutes? 15 minutes? Disconnecting the battery is probably a fast way to reset the timer but would be a hassle if I have to do it several times.

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Posted By: cochran191 On: 04-27-2008 @ 18:08:28     Reply | Top | Edit

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I usually waited 10-15 minutes
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99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch

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Posted By: Fury_786 On: 04-27-2008 @ 23:13:39     Reply | Top | Edit

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yep, security

just undo the battery, or PCM connections for a few minutes.

a new key from GM never hurts either.
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2002 Camaro M5, FTW [Whisper Lid][K&N][Flowmaster][B&M Shifter][3:42's, posi][TB Spacer][BMR STB][Adj. Panhard by Fury ][Built T-5][Alum. 3.5" DS w/1350 Dana’s][HP Tuned by Fury ][100 shot wet kit][Pacesetter's][SLP LL's][Lakewood LCA's][Poly TM][180*][iCAT][MSD 8.5's][NGK Iridiums][3" Cutout][ST 1.75" drop][fra mods]

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-27-2008 @ 23:44:29     Reply | Top | Edit

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OK, so I went back to the parking garage and unplugged the battery a few times, also took the backup key which is more or less new. No luck! It still keeps flashing the security light. Very frustrating.

I just don't want to drain money on this but running out of options

Anymore suggestions? Anyway to disable (or short) security? What could it be, anyway for me to just start it and drive home without having to tow it?

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-28-2008 @ 04:49:45     Reply | Top | Edit

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Looks like I'm mostly talking to myself here

While researching this issue, I came across this which may help others too:

VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats

This VATS system is really a trap, I can't imagine what I would've done if this would have happened while travelling away from home, in small towns or night stops (not that the hotel garage at night was fun). Definitely would be a royal pain if one were stuck in a small town with no dealership, not that one would even trust the dealership to pinpoint and fix this fast.

Car is still in the parking garage, racking up daily parking fees of $14/day at least.
[ Edited on 04/28/2008 @ 04:52:37 ]

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Posted By: cochran191 On: 04-28-2008 @ 07:31:38     Reply | Top | Edit

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Sorry I couldn't help you more. Most of the time though if you can prove that you can't move your car, and can't have it towed, for example because your car has to be on a rollback and the ceiling is to low for your car to be taken out of the garage without causing damage to your car or their facility, the will usually not charge you anything, or at least give you a break. I wouldn't want to go splicing into my wires, but if that is your last hope then good luck to you.
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99 Black Z-28 "Stripper" M6, SS Ram Air Hood, Borla Cat-Back, J&M Strut Tower Brace, B&M Ripper Shifter, Whisper Lid, Tint (50% front, 35% rear) Pics @ http://www.fquick.com/3p0ch

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-28-2008 @ 13:47:14     Reply | Top | Edit

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I don't know how sensitive people are about other forums, but in case anyone is looking to bypass the VATS, there is a very detailed guide on it called "How to bypass your VATS" on the ls1.com forum.

I am planning to do the bypass after verifying that there is a break somewhere in the wires/connections.
[ Edited on 04/28/2008 @ 13:48:19 ]

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-28-2008 @ 14:16:13     Reply | Top | Edit

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Another useful link for the VATS bypass:

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key

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Posted By: GregHaness On: 04-28-2008 @ 19:48:24     Reply | Top | Edit

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I wasn't sure if you narrowed it down to your VATS for sure or not, but I thought I would post to you when my SS had the same symptons you described.

Similar to your situation, came home from fast food run, after eating went to move car into the drive way to wash it, and it was completly dead.

Everything else worked in my SS, (lights, radio, etc)but wouldn't start, woulnd't even try to. Thought the same things, battery, starter, etc. Somewhere I read about the ignition realy. (Located under the hood in the fuse box) Swapped it with the starter realy (since there are the same) my SS then "wanted" to start but wouldn't crank over, bought a new relay and life was good again.


FYI - I called 4 different dealers looking to see if they had the realy on the shelf, got 4 different quotes. Ranged from $8 - $33, luckly the last dealer I called had it in stock was sold it for $8


Just an idea, maybe it can be of use to you. Good luck.

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Posted By: Dare2Dream On: 04-29-2008 @ 01:39:14     Reply | Top | Edit

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I would like to thank all of you guys, cochran, Fury, and Greg!

I determined the resistance value of my key 'chip', it was 2400 ohms. Since Radioshack didn't have that value, I had to soder together three resistors in series to get the correct value. Went to the garage/car, removed the bottom dash cover, disconnected the VATS wire harness (two white wires going to the key (stearing column) while purple with white line and white with black line going to BCM). Inserted the key and tested the resistance at the white wires and got nothing which confirmed there was a break somewhere). Then I plugged in my resistor into the other side of the harness (purple/white and white/black). Turned the key and amazingly the car started.

Anyways, I am just so relieved that I didn't have to get it towed to the stealership, really would have burned a whole in my pocket for no good reason. I'd recommend everyone to consider this VATS bypass or be ready to do it at a moments notice (keep a multimeter and other supplies in the car), otherwise you could be very frustrated if something like this happens especially when you may be hundreds of miles from home or even a even a city.

Here is the link to the VATS bypass guide so it may help others.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262

Link provided in good spirit, so I hope it can be left without deletion.
[ Edited on 04/29/2008 @ 01:40:02 ]

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