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LS1 ino A 82-92 Iroc Posted By: dasone On: 04-21-2009 @ 05:13:45 Reply | Edit ok im new to this site, i dont know much about building engines and working on cars but its something i have always wanted to do, i plan on buying an 82-92 Iroc and i want to put an LS1 motor in it, and i know its not that simple, i know i have alot of things to consider, but if there is anyone out there that has any knowledge of this swap please hit me up and school me to the ways of the F-body, i would like some advice thanks you can also reach me at narcaffiliate1@yahoo.com Posted By: Pocket On: 04-21-2009 @ 16:37:41 Reply | Top | Edit http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/448105-ls1-into-third-gen.html Buy a V6 car or a roller to start from. Theres no point in paying extra for a car with the top engine if you're just going to swap it Buy a 4.8/5.3 truck engine if cost is a big issue DIY harness, its not that difficult, big saving and routing fixes Research, research, research Know what you're in for before you get knee deep and hit a dead end/damage something epxensive Posted By: dasone On: 04-21-2009 @ 16:50:44 Reply | Top | Edit yea that definitely makes a lot of sense, i have been looking for rollers as it saves money that i can spend on the meat and potatoes. i am interested in the 5.7 LS1 i dont want to spend anything over $1000(on the motor its self) but i know i might have to. my goal is a 400 possibly 500 HP car, i think this is realistic with the right bolt ons and cam head combo, please stop me if im getting to big for my britches Posted By: blackcamaro On: 04-22-2009 @ 13:48:13 Reply | Top | Edit www.tacreationsusa.com They sell the motor and trans with harness for about $$. prices gone up alot. Lt1 6speed is a lil cheaper. You need a different motor mount setup and also trans mount. GOOD LUCK. any questions. these guys answered all mine during my swap. --  "Quiet, This is my favorite part"-Mike Tyson [ Edited on 04/22/2009 @ 13:49:22 ] Posted By: dasone On: 04-23-2009 @ 12:26:23 Reply | Top | Edit thanks black, but those prices are a little rich for my blood at the moment, but i appreciate the link i can probably find something else useful there, im actually considering an LT1 now, would i still have to make the notch in the Kmember to allow it to fit, or is it a completely different set up? also im alittle confused on a few things as far as the LS1 swap, do i have to use the hawks headers for this swap??? can i use other headers? or are those the only ones i can use besides the stock ex.manifolds? and can i use the hawks after putting the notch in the original Kmember? sorry if this is completely obvious to everyone else but im alittle new to this and im trying to be totally informed and well aware of what im dealing with thanks Posted By: Pocket On: 04-23-2009 @ 23:24:32 Reply | Top | Edit LT1 oil pan is the same as your stocker 3rd gen. No notch needed for the pan The notch comes from making room for AC lines Do a search on TGO about LS1 headers. Those way overpriced long tubes arent your only option, nor your best as their ground clearance blows Most resourceful people have noticed that SBC headers arent that hard to mod to make LS1 headers at 1/3 the price The Hawks should slip in no matter what K-member you're using and its mods unless you add stuff on the backside Posted By: Shift On: 04-25-2009 @ 23:11:12 Reply | Top | Edit I suggest if you dont know much when it comes to working on cars, an LS1 swap may not be for you. There is a massive amount of information on the LTx / LSx subforum of thirdgen.org, spend a few days reading through the threads before you go ahead with anything. I plan on using stock fbody manifolds for my swap, I can't afford the $800 USD headers. --  Posted By: dasone On: 04-25-2009 @ 23:33:24 Reply | Top | Edit well i consider myself a responsible adult lol so i wouldnt jump into something like this without doing the research, but i dont think my lack of knowledge of an LS1 is going to discourage me from doing the engine swap that i want to do, though i definitely appreciate the input from everyone because you guys are the more experience individuals that have done it, im also thinking about getting an 4gen Ls1 camaro i found one for an unbelievable price, should i be talked out of it??? lol either way i still will have a 3rd gen and do my swap Posted By: Shift On: 04-27-2009 @ 14:29:38 Reply | Top | Edit You never said you had a lack of knowledge of the LS1, you said you have a lack of knowledge with working on cars / building engines. Thats why I said that. -- Posted By: 1984TA On: 05-10-2009 @ 02:57:01 Reply | Top | Edit I hate to rain on anyones parade but I just completed an LS1 swap. My gods honest truth experience was absolute hell and its still ongoing. I relied on Hawks for most of my parts and that was a huge mistake. Nice guy, but the conversion junk he sold almost never fit. Bolt on?? yeah right. I spent countless hours refabricating parts sold there that had bolt holes misaligned, tabs in wrong places, and the "plug and play" wiring harness--dont even get me started. We hooked that wiring harness up and all hell broke loose. We basically had to rewire the entire thing wire by wire and add relays, different connectors, and different wires to even get it to work. My advice is save the money, save the time, save the anger and frustration of non existent customer service, and put a 350 crate motor in it if you want some real horsepower. The other company (which is a 1 person company) that was so bad to me was "Auto Computer Technologies". The guy there messed me over for months after I paid him, lied and told me more than 1 time that he had shipped my LS1 computer(when he hadnt), and then when the computer didnt work, he blamed it on me. The 2nd computer he finally shipped (after I bought a 2nd one) was even from a different year! I finally gave up on him as he refused to return calls and never answers the phone. Bottom line, it does take a ton of research, and even with all that I did, unless you are a major mechanic or have a ton of money to waste paying very good mechanics to trouble shoot wiring BS and a complete reconfiguration of your car, it is not worth it. I converted my 84 to fuel injection but I guess you could keep it carbed which would solve a lot of problems, but it still is a long road. Sorry guys, that is my 2 cents worth. Believe me, after the nightmare that I have lived using supposed "conversion" parts, I feel I am qualified to post here about this. I say save the F-body for posterity, just keep the motor/trans a similar configuration. Good luck. Posted By: Pocket On: 05-10-2009 @ 08:29:51 Reply | Top | Edit If you possessed the knowledge to re-do everything you purchased, then you would have been better off building your own everything Posted By: Calaban007 On: 05-10-2009 @ 09:38:08 Reply | Top | Edit Would have probably been cheaper to fab the stuff himself, but I see his point. He bought all this stuff meant to simplify and make the swap as easy and and hassle free as possible; it did not. So he had to spend a bunch of time and money unexpectedly. It's kind of hard to back out of something like this once you start on it. Also, why would it matter what year the computer came out of as long as it was an LS1 computer? -- 
1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion, CAI, SFC's & 1989 IROC-Z restoration in progress Posted By: 1984TA On: 05-10-2009 @ 20:27:20 Reply | Top | Edit Calaban, you hit the nail on the head. I did not do the work because I do not have a shop. I certainly could NOT have done it all myself and that is why I hired a professional shop. Once the car was all apart, and I ordered the parts, I was pretty much screwed once I found out they didnt fit. I took out the whole crossmember that holds the engine and bought the "bolt on" engine cradle. It had holes drilled in the wrong places, one side was an inch short, and after finally getting it all together, the engine sat unlevel (that is with the custom built conversion "bolt on" motor mounts. So the shop had to flip those and redrill them to make them work. The trans mount had similar problems. The worst like I said was the "plug and play" wiring harness. What a complete line of BS. It was just everything like that--absolutely dont go the conversion route and that is my experience. Also the rack and pinion steering conversion that goes onto that cradle has rendered the car horrible to drive. I dont know what they were thinking but that kit absolutely does not work. The angles for the heim joints are way to sharp and they bind. Even after they have been clearanced (causing play in the wheel) they still are binding due to extreme angles. What an amazing waste of a great car. Finally to answer the problem on the wrong year computer, to custom tune a computer using a certain companies computer program, you need to buy "credits" from the tuning company itself. My shop had already bought a certain years "credits" to complete my tune and that computer was defective. We specifically ordered that year of computer due to EGR provisions and other items. But the computer sent was a different year so they had to buy another set of "credits" from the tuning company. The computer worked, just made us waste the cost of a whole different years "credits". The car is now unbelievably fast in a straight line, you just cant turn it. That's where I am at. Any suggestions on rack and pinion replacement surgery? The LS1 is just in the way of where the steering needs to go. The old steering is gone and the new cradle had mounts to hold the rack. Anyone done this differently? Posted By: Pocket On: 05-10-2009 @ 23:52:27 Reply | Top | Edit Assuming you went with a common power steering rack like flaming river or 4th gen The spindle arms are too long for correct geometry, but being cast iron, you cant just chop and weld Racecraft makes spindles to correct this problem, albeit pricey If I were you, Id swap back to a factory setup. The LS1 will clear all factory linkages. Spohn K-members are known to have issues with the factory setups thou. Swapping to S-10 pitman/idler arms solves this as they are slightly shorter, or you could flip the centerlink
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