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1992 Camaro RS with start issues Posted By: SaD1ST1K On: 03-17-2009 @ 19:58:53 Reply | Edit hey guys, My sister's boyfriend has a 92 RS 305 Auto. From what he is telling me he had put a new starter in it, and it ran fine. then after a little while it wouldn't stay running. From there he shut it off, i guess the oil was a little low so after he topped that off, he went to fire it up and it wouldnt start. It did click a few times, but now does nothing, Battery is good, starter and accessories are tight...any ideas? -- 
All Free-mods, 160 tstat, Adjustable Fan Switch, MSD Cap & Rotor, 1.6RR, MSD Blaster Coil, 8mm Wires, Ram Powergrip Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Granatelli MAF. Posted By: Pocket On: 03-17-2009 @ 23:45:41 Reply | Top | Edit Click = battery Posted By: fbodys_own On: 03-18-2009 @ 03:38:02 Reply | Top | Edit more like, ReT4RD3D. -- '91 Firebird 305 & 5 speed. Currently on the injured list.  Posted By: SaD1ST1K On: 03-18-2009 @ 12:23:52 Reply | Top | Edit listen man i just wanted some ideas on what it would be. And its NOT the battery. Supposedly the car started late last night, then he went out to try it this morning and NOTHING. i just dont know, any help would be appreciated, thanks. --
All Free-mods, 160 tstat, Adjustable Fan Switch, MSD Cap & Rotor, 1.6RR, MSD Blaster Coil, 8mm Wires, Ram Powergrip Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Granatelli MAF. Posted By: Pocket On: 03-18-2009 @ 18:53:56 Reply | Top | Edit Well what is it then? Starting and charging systems on GM cars are pretty simple Batt, Alt, starter, IGN Click rules out IGN Assume the new starter is good and installed properly Alt wouldnt affect starting Leaves..... yeah Posted By: SaD1ST1K On: 03-19-2009 @ 15:38:55 Reply | Top | Edit true, but i dont know how it goes from cranking and starting fine, then overnight, gives not even a click. i understand what your saying Jon but i cant exactly rule out the IGN because it doesnt successfully click 100% of the time....its either its fine, clicks a little, or nothing at all. My dad went over the other day and is saying now that he had the headlights on, and when he turned the key to "on" position to create somewhat of a draw, there is no draw from current electronics that are running. Such as the headlights/interior Etc. He called around this morning and some local mechanic shops are saying its most likely something within the starter? do you think? --
All Free-mods, 160 tstat, Adjustable Fan Switch, MSD Cap & Rotor, 1.6RR, MSD Blaster Coil, 8mm Wires, Ram Powergrip Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, Granatelli MAF. Posted By: Pocket On: 03-19-2009 @ 18:47:02 Reply | Top | Edit Not the first time a bad starter has been purchased Easy way to test: Bridge the starter leads using a piece of metal (screwdriver) Red wire lead to purple wire lead Also, have the battery tested at a local parts store Posted By: Shift On: 03-20-2009 @ 23:39:23 Reply | Top | Edit Check all your connections from the battery. A loose connection or bad cable can make it click like that as well. Are you sure the battery is fine? Have you had it load tested? It can still show 12.6+ volts and have no cranking amperage behind it. Either that or spend the $35 bucks to have a shop diagnose it. --  [ Edited on 03/20/2009 @ 23:40:37 ] Posted By: Green97TAMachine On: 03-21-2009 @ 02:06:51 Reply | Top | Edit 
$35 bucks... thats a good one. -- 
1997 Mystic Teal Trans Am Best Time: 13.984@102.99Mph  Posted By: blackcamaro On: 03-21-2009 @ 07:04:21 Reply | Top | Edit I am With Pocket, I also agree with him. Advance and Autozone TEST both for free. just make sure the person testing it does NOT have pimples... --  1989 RS 2.8 5speed(canadian mounted police impounded)
1987 IROC 5.7 Auto (black people stole it) 1984 Z28 Lt1 4l60e (sold it to a redneck) 1986 Z28 IROC/Formula suspension LG4/700r4/3.23 Posted By: Shift On: 03-22-2009 @ 18:19:02 Reply | Top | Edit At our shop, we charge about $35 bucks for an A.V.R. test. -- Posted By: Pocket On: 03-22-2009 @ 20:06:29 Reply | Top | Edit Autozone also retrieves OBDII codes for free and has free tool loaner services No fat chix Posted By: TigerZ On: 03-29-2009 @ 03:14:38 Reply | Top | Edit Battery or wiring. Go to autozone or kragen auto and they will test your battery and alternator for free. My money is on the wiring for the starter.. -- K&N, Edelbrock, T5 swap, MSD, Flowmaster, 3.73s 3600watt sound system wrapped in falkon ziexs mmm  Posted By: Calaban007 On: 03-30-2009 @ 22:04:28 Reply | Top | Edit My Z28 had the same problem with the clicking, I changed the battery out a year or two before the problem came out and had the same symptoms. I could turn the key and nothing would happen or it would click. Turned out the solenoid to starter connection was bad. I disconnected the wire and you could see where it had pitted and arced. Unfortunately I broke the post off and had to soldered it all back together. It lasted another month before the solder broke. After I "fixed" it, it started the first time every time until it came loose and I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new starter because you can't just get a solenoid for an LT1 starter. I'd check all the connections thoroughly, especially ones that were connected before he got it if there are any, and then if that doesn't work take it to the auto parts store and have them check it. Good Luck -- 
1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion, CAI, SFC's & 1989 IROC-Z restoration in progress Posted By: Racer86y On: 04-18-2009 @ 11:01:31 Reply | Top | Edit Steering column is bad Posted By: Racer86y On: 04-18-2009 @ 11:02:55 Reply | Top | Edit My 90 RS does that.I just move it around and it starts.I know i will have to fix it shortly but for now it goes.....lol
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