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Twin SC progress

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-24-2009 @ 19:01:10 Reply | Edit

So I got my plates finally, but have been swamped with school, work, family and life. Today I had some free time so I got busy.

Here are the plates on my mock-up engine in the incredibly messy garage
They started as cardboard templates then 1/4" plywood transferred into AutoCAD for more accurate modeling. Apparently my measurements were slightly off as most of the holes had to be slotted about .020". I also found that the accessory bolt holes on my alum heads were not the same as my L98 irons. The ones closest to the intake are off by nearly 1/2"! An issue to address when I upgrade I suppose.

Today I made a tray for the drivers side blower. A drill press and a vice would have made this job cake. Oh well, I made due anyways
This is how it fits and attaches with 3 large bolts using the factory holes cast into the blower case. That is not its final install location, it is simply propped up on the valve cover to give a rough visual on where its going

I had been thinking about the entire setup as well. As the design stands it uses a single belt to power both blowers, the WP(soon to be electric) and the alt. The WP is securely affixed and will never flex. The alt on the otherhand is only secured to the pass motor plate and will flex with it (ever so slightly). This could lead to minor slippage and possible belt loss.

Old

My new idea is to run two belts. Crank, WP, Alt and a second on the Crank and blowers. This should remove all possible chances of the alt mounting screwing up the blower operation. The downside would be additional complexity

I should have more later

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-25-2009 @ 17:49:20 Reply | Top | Edit

More today before it got too cold

I made the other side's tray (not pictured) and the end brace for the drivers side. The remainder of the day was measuring and fitment

In-car fit
Pretty damn good

This is why I had to give up power brakes

Lots of room

Very tight

Lots of room for the "hat"

I did run into an issue with the hood. As it stands I cannot close it fully. The blower is contacting near the front by about 1/4"
A bit of luck I designed the front plates pretty tall in case I ever went with larger rockers
I have 1.125" of clearance between the tray and valve cover. Dropping the drop of the plates down 7/8"-1" should give ample clearance then without compromising "hat" real estate

Thoughts? Opinions so far?

Posted By: fbodys_own On: 01-25-2009 @ 18:16:24 Reply | Top | Edit

looks pretty cool. are you going to mill the hole for the induction before you get too far in?

projected hp?

also, how much do you have in the setup so far?
--
'91 Firebird 305 & 5 speed. Currently on the injured list.

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-25-2009 @ 22:20:22 Reply | Top | Edit

Plamsa cut it once I make the hat

Plan for 650ish at the crank, although Id be happy if the damned thing ran at all

Blower #1 cost $90some
Blower #2 cost $120some rebuild should be around $85 each
Plates and angle iron cost $50

This project doesnt have a budget, just whatever I can piece together

Posted By: fbodys_own On: 01-25-2009 @ 22:28:12 Reply | Top | Edit

cool deal. why did you opt for the steel plates vs aluminum?
--
'91 Firebird 305 & 5 speed. Currently on the injured list.

Posted By: fast82Z On: 01-25-2009 @ 23:39:02 Reply | Top | Edit

From the builder and cheap ass in me, that is great and looks real nice so far, but still realize there are different and possibly better ways to make the power.
--
1982 Z28, 383, D-1SC intercooled @ 15psi, trick flow heads, solid roller cam, 3.73's, th400,
4500 stall, trans. brake, fuel injection, 9.55@140, 1.31 60' with 3600lbs. AIM:CHATV400

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-26-2009 @ 00:15:06 Reply | Top | Edit

I chose steel because I cannot weld alum currently and alum is quite a bit more expensive

Different and better? Absolutely

This is more of a challenge than a perfect power adder, and it also have a great deal of room for improvement. I can upgrade one or both sides to M112's with any major design changes

Posted By: fbodys_own On: 01-26-2009 @ 00:47:12 Reply | Top | Edit

ah, didnt know because you said there was no budget and aluminum is quite a bit lighter.
--
'91 Firebird 305 & 5 speed. Currently on the injured list.

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-27-2009 @ 02:22:27 Reply | Top | Edit

I did a MASSPROP on the model and the weight difference between 1/4" steel and 1/2" alum was 8 lbs

Not as heavy as one would think

Anyways the plates and blowers weigh less than the factory accessories

Posted By: roubenbird On: 01-27-2009 @ 11:25:16 Reply | Top | Edit

I just had a great idea..... Instead of a remote mounted turbo..... A remote mounted supercharger. it could be driven from the driveshaft!!!

Muahahahahahaa

Let me know Jon.
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

WS6 3o5 TBI 88' Formula, 670cfm Holley Projection Throttle Body Holley Projection Intake Mainfold, Underdrive Pulley,Dual Snorkle & Factory Cowl Induction,now with short straight pipes, UMI Subframe connectors, Fourth Gen seats, Three row Radiator, Posi rear end (2.73),TPI heads, 1.6 roller rockers
15.543 @ 88.21mph

Posted By: Shift On: 01-28-2009 @ 02:38:26 Reply | Top | Edit

Or you could buy a power inverter and hook up an 50 gallon air compressor to your throttle body for bursts of boost, like Nitrous.
--

Posted By: roubenbird On: 01-28-2009 @ 14:27:05 Reply | Top | Edit

And then run the exhaust back to pressurize the compressor.... Genius
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 01-29-2009 @ 02:41:04 Reply | Top | Edit

is this setup going to be intercooled?

if so, dont you have to use a water setup? arent those usually put under the supercharger?

i'm a dope, i know. i've been hanging around these GTP guys too long, but thats how they do it.

they run an electric pump, a chiracco radiator up front and then this 3" thick aluminum spacer under the blower that has a "heater core" in it and they pump coolant through it the system.

i was told the "air to air" intercoolers were for turbo only.
--
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - 2.0 DOHC - MTx - 30.3 MPG City - Daily Driver
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars
--Fbody.com Site Donator --

Posted By: Emc209i On: 01-29-2009 @ 04:20:51 Reply | Top | Edit

Everything looks nice John! I'm watching this thread daily, just so you know, waiting on more updates.

LeadFoot, I believe he plans on using a FMIC that's air to air. I'll let him fill you guys in, being I haven't turned any wrenches.

-
1988 Pontiac Fiero GT - 3800 supercharged 5 speed
[ Edited on 01/29/2009 @ 04:22:33 ]

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-29-2009 @ 11:14:20 Reply | Top | Edit

Most roots guys cannot/dont use FMIC because of a packaging issue. They usually use an air to water intercooler under the blower like you described

These units are remote so I dont have to sandwich the IC under the blower outlet, I simply move it down the plumbing to a better location which will be in front of the radiator

Turbo only is nonsense, centri SC guys also use single or dual ATA IC's for simplicity

Make sense?

Plan is to use one of these

Posted By: Pocket On: 01-29-2009 @ 11:19:09 Reply | Top | Edit

Initial routing plan
Talking to luken4trbl made me think about rerouting the outlet to a more direct path between the rad and headlight
Also depending on the IC I pick, the outlet direction will change

Posted By: GOATS2QUICK On: 02-02-2009 @ 12:15:48 Reply | Top | Edit

impressive project your workin on.
--
gta 350 tpi

Posted By: IROCZman15 On: 02-04-2009 @ 23:10:58 Reply | Top | Edit

jeeez.. wow, i dont think ive ever seen a setup liek this. very interesting

u think the 1 belt idea wil work though? i could imagine some issues with that.

very interesting setup thogh. i give u credit for attempting a complicate engineering setup like this. hope it works well. keep posting pics
--

http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/
updated october 2008

Posted By: Pocket On: 02-05-2009 @ 01:00:35 Reply | Top | Edit

There are 3 that I know of using these style M90s

My new idea is to run two belts. Crank, WP, Alt and a second on the Crank and blowers. This should remove all possible chances of the alt mounting screwing up the blower operation. The downside would be additional complexity

Read the threads more carefully

Posted By: Shift On: 02-05-2009 @ 21:19:38 Reply | Top | Edit

When you get this project done, and I get my LS1 swap done, I will race you

Posted By: Pocket On: 02-06-2009 @ 17:35:07 Reply | Top | Edit

Sure thing

Posted By: Shift On: 02-07-2009 @ 07:27:26 Reply | Top | Edit

Fine then, it is settled

LS1 vs. LS1

Posted By: Green97TAMachine On: 02-10-2009 @ 15:50:40 Reply | Top | Edit

But what about

??!??!?11/1/!?!/1?
--

1997 Mystic Teal Trans Am
Best Time: 13.984@102.99Mph

Posted By: Pocket On: 02-10-2009 @ 19:09:01 Reply | Top | Edit

Less power, insanely higher cost, physically bigger, lack of swap items/support, rarity

LT5 is a cool engine, but not really feasible in any aspect

Posted By: Shift On: 02-10-2009 @ 21:26:56 Reply | Top | Edit

And do you actually own an LT5? I do own that LS1

Posted By: Green97TAMachine On: 02-16-2009 @ 01:53:06 Reply | Top | Edit

No, I just wanted to play along...

1997 Mystic Teal Trans Am
Best Time: 13.984@102.99Mph

Posted By: Emc209i On: 03-06-2009 @ 14:36:23 Reply | Top | Edit

bump...

Posted By: blackcamaro On: 03-06-2009 @ 16:19:47 Reply | Top | Edit

OMG-My jaw was dropped

FANTASTIC

your going to need to upgrades your brakes too. LOL
--

1989 RS 2.8 5speed(canadian mounted police impounded)
1987 IROC 5.7 Auto (black people stole it)
1984 Z28 Lt1 4l60e (sold it to a redneck)
1986 Z28 IROC/Formula suspension LG4/700r4/3.23
[ Edited on 03/06/2009 @ 16:20:15 ]

Posted By: fbodys_own On: 03-10-2009 @ 00:11:49 Reply | Top | Edit

so how's it comin?
--
'91 Firebird 305 & 5 speed. Currently on the injured list.

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-05-2009 @ 15:38:54 Reply | Top | Edit

Since Ive been cooped up here with mono I decided to update the old CAD model to my current progress

My metalwork hasnt changed, this is just how the design sits now

I had to rotate the passenger blower to the angle of the valve covers. The engine in 3rd gens is not centered in the car, leaning about 3/4" to the pass side. This cuts down on my already tight space. The rotation clears the blower case from hood contact. Hood contact on this side is not an issue

This diagram shows where the pulley would be had it not been rotated, and where the pulleys would be if the drivers side was turned as well. The pass side only dropped 1/4" but the drivers side drops about 1 1/4". The idler pulley would have to be moved, but thats no problem. Id only rotate the drivers side if the hood clearance is still an issue

Early models had braces ran to a center intake bolt. Now that the brackets are nowhere near the intake, I had to redesign them. A simple bracket welded to the header flange makes sense. I drew in a flange to squeeze between the primary tubes, I doubt it will actually fit. Thinking about the stresses applied to the bracket it will primarily see tension, so this flange is not necessary

This shows the pass side where the hat will go. Unlike the original design, this side will require an off center hat that must work within the braces holding the blower bracket up. I predict a good bit of difficulty in this area

I just liked this image

Posted By: fast82Z On: 06-05-2009 @ 20:20:48 Reply | Top | Edit

I like the custom fab and CAD pics, but that alternator area looks a little bothering to me how the belt doesn't really wrap around the pulley much.
--
1982 Z28, 383, D-1SC intercooled @ 15psi, trick flow heads, solid roller cam, 3.73's, th400,
4500 stall, trans. brake, fuel injection, 9.55@140, 1.31 60' with 3600lbs. AIM:CHATV400

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-06-2009 @ 15:02:12 Reply | Top | Edit

Pics of the mock-up

Drivers valve cover clearance, approx 1/4"

Pass, yes its resting on the bolt, but the clearance is about the same

Underside of the drivers. Plenty of room for the hat and flange from the headers

A little tighter clearance on the pass side. You can see why an offset hat is needed

Does the alt really need much wrap?

Posted By: fast82Z On: 06-09-2009 @ 18:56:59 Reply | Top | Edit

It might be completely fine that way, but for extra insurance I think I'd like another idler near the alternator to wrap more belt on it. Another thought too, how long of a belt is that going to take? Might get some belt to make sure it will use a belt that is more of a normally stocked size.
--
1982 Z28, 383, D-1SC intercooled @ 15psi, trick flow heads, solid roller cam, 3.73's, th400,
4500 stall, trans. brake, fuel injection, 9.55@140, 1.31 60' with 3600lbs. AIM:CHATV400

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-09-2009 @ 23:46:40 Reply | Top | Edit

After alot of searching I found this gem

http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=3128

With my current setup I use the factory belt from a Buick Park Avenue 3.8

Adding an extra idler for the alt would add 6-8" putting me in the 108-110 range which is also supported

Im still toying the two belt idea as well, Im just not sure where to get a LS1 style crank pulley made for a GEN I

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-20-2009 @ 20:49:14 Reply | Top | Edit

I finished the brackets and have been working on mounting the tensioner, alt and idlers. Trying to dig up a camera so deal with CAD for now

I was thinking alot about the belt routing and how things could go wrong, and I came up with alternatives

Left side uses a single serp belt, top is stock 8" crank pulley. Bottom uses underdrive pulley which is counter productive for SC engines, but should drop the pressure for initial startup and base tuning

The right side uses two belts. A serp for the blowers, crank, WP; and a V-belt for the alt to Crank or alt to WP. Either way should pose little difficulty. The hard part is finding a crank or WP pulley with a 6-8 rib serp and a single V groove. Several older chevy trucks have a 5 rib with a V, but I highly doubt 5 ribs will be enough contact area to spin the blowers. 6 rib likely wont be much better, but its what Ive got now and should put me in the right direction without dropping alot of money into custom 8 rib pulleys that may or may not workout

In-car fitment pics to come soon

Posted By: fast82Z On: 06-21-2009 @ 00:29:25 Reply | Top | Edit

I like the left two, way to get more belt on the alt. If you needed to use a belt just for the alt. I'd move it forward and pile on another pulley on the crank to drive it. I did this for my belt drive fuel pump. Used the 3 balancer bolts to hold a plate that I welded an exhaust piece to to help center it on the big center washer as well as possition the 2" pulley in front of the regular pulley.
--
1982 Z28, 383, D-1SC intercooled @ 15psi, trick flow heads, solid roller cam, 3.73's, th400,
4500 stall, trans. brake, fuel injection, 9.55@140, 1.31 60' with 3600lbs. AIM:CHATV400

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-21-2009 @ 11:59:50 Reply | Top | Edit

In-car

Everything fits and the hood still closes. A marvel indeed

Posted By: crunkmaro

On: 06-21-2009 @ 12:39:41 Reply | Top | Edit

*bows down*

Posted By: camaro91 On: 06-21-2009 @ 15:54:34 Reply | Top | Edit

indeed
--
'91 RS, 305 tbi, auto, flowmaster american thunder
big plans!

355 lookin for 11's!

mods: tci 2500 stall, 3.73 posi, built 700r4, transgo shift kit

Posted By: roubenbird On: 06-22-2009 @ 18:06:34 Reply | Top | Edit

So, fire it up!

Is there an expected time line or finish date?
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-22-2009 @ 19:25:55 Reply | Top | Edit

No timeline. This summer is about as specific as I can get

Still alot of work before i can fire it

Posted By: Pocket On: 06-24-2009 @ 17:09:28 Reply | Top | Edit

Belt routing drawn in, red means brace

Tensioner reinforced, testing tension
wOot

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-01-2009 @ 21:45:01 Reply | Top | Edit

I rebuilt both blower snouts today using an ebay kit

Read:
http://www.rollingperformance.com/snoutrebuild.htm

It wasnt that hard really, just time consuming and problems arising

#1 Im a huge cheapass and will not be paying $150 for a pulley remover
http://www.pulleyboys.com/fordsvtpt.html

So I fired up the welder and made one with a bolt, a nut, and a few short bits of angle iron. One advantage of mine is I ground the bolt to a point so it wont try to 'walk' off the tip of the main shaft and damage the threads. It just isnt pretty like the expensive one

#2 The snout bolts are supposed to be torqued to 65inch pounds. I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose and they're only 10mm

#3 The second job was to replace the snout seal. I figured it would be easier to pull the old one out if the main shaft was removed. According to the article, a few taps of a rubber mallet will knock it out. It didnt. My 4lb mini sledge couldnt knock it out either, so the seal was done with the shaft still installed

#4 Im not sure what epoxy the factory used to secure the rotor pack section of the case to the main case but it wouldnt come out. I could have driven a screwdriver in between, but risk of damage would have been high and I wasnt risking it

#5 Old SC oil stinks. Alot. New SC oil isnt much better

#6 The latex gloves provided in the kit did little more than disintegrate and get in the way, so you will smell like old SC oil anyways

#7 Both of my drain plugs were rounded. While new ones are available, that didnt help me removing the old ones. Stock, they take a 3/16" allen key. If you take a 5mm and hammer it in there, it will come out with no fuss. Why the factory didnt put a hex head just above the plug surface I dont know. There is nothing (on the T-birds) remotely close to it

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-03-2009 @ 19:06:25 Reply | Top | Edit

wow... looks like i've missed alot of progress... looks real good. glad to see your sticking to it.
--
1985 Chevy K10 - 305 - 700r4 - np208 - 14bff - dana 44 - 38" Gumbos - 6" Tuff Country Lift - Daily Gas Guzzler
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - 2.0 DOHC - MTx - 30.3 MPG City - DEAD
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars

Posted By: Remdog On: 07-05-2009 @ 10:54:32 Reply | Top | Edit

how much was the snout bearing kit worth?

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-05-2009 @ 11:13:09 Reply | Top | Edit

The rebuild kit I got was $55

With bearings it goes up to $95

My bearings were fine so I opted for just the snout seal and coupler with 8oz of oil

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-12-2009 @ 02:19:01 Reply | Top | Edit

I dont feel like explaining, so heres some pics

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-12-2009 @ 08:36:09 Reply | Top | Edit

no power steering?

if you move DOWN to manual brakes, you'd loose the booster and that'd save you some room behind that blower
--

[ Edited on 07/12/2009 @ 08:36:45 ]

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-12-2009 @ 11:06:01 Reply | Top | Edit

Full on drag car, I dont need either
I already have manual brakes and will be putting a Fiero manual R/P on next

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-12-2009 @ 19:26:49 Reply | Top | Edit

oh. in that case, awesome... i've been thinking of going r/p myself in the 84. is the fiero r/p the one to go with?
--
1985 Chevy K10 - 305 - 700r4 - np208 - 14bff - dana 44 - 38" Gumbos - 6" Tuff Country Lift - Daily Gas Guzzler
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - 2.0 DOHC - MTx - 30.3 MPG City - DEAD
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-13-2009 @ 00:02:09 Reply | Top | Edit

I dont see why not

Its about 15 lbs, cheap and plentiful in nearly any JY. Nearly the same length as a Fbody linkage, and the fiero steering shaft is perfect length and will fit the Fbody column end fine. Additionally it is full manual, so halfass conversions are a thing of the past

Ill post a how-to thread in a little while

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-13-2009 @ 11:43:54 Reply | Top | Edit

i've seen people selling $600 KITS to install a rack in a 3rd gen. i nearly crapped my pants.
--

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-13-2009 @ 21:25:05 Reply | Top | Edit

I dont have $600 in this entire setup and Im surely not going to start pissing money like that

Plus, having a welder and being a cheapass pushes you to save money any way possible

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-13-2009 @ 21:34:49 Reply | Top | Edit

i hear you on that part... i am trying to do things as right and perfect as possible without forking out a ton of money...
--
1985 Chevy K10 - 305 - 700r4 - np208 - 14bff - dana 44 - 38" Gumbos - 6" Tuff Country Lift - Daily Gas Guzzler
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - 2.0 DOHC - MTx - 30.3 MPG City - DEAD
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-14-2009 @ 21:22:46 Reply | Top | Edit

I flat out dont give a damn

If it works, awesome

If not, oh well, Ill part it out and break even or possibly above since rebuilt blowers go for alot more

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-18-2009 @ 20:50:27 Reply | Top | Edit

It runs now

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer On: 07-19-2009 @ 18:50:56 Reply | Top | Edit

with the belt attached? do the blowers move around much? have you done the plumbing to the intercooler yet?
--
1985 Chevy K10 - 305 - 700r4 - np208 - 14bff - dana 44 - 38" Gumbos - 6" Tuff Country Lift - Daily Gas Guzzler
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - 2.0 DOHC - MTx - 30.3 MPG City - DEAD
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars

Posted By: Pocket On: 07-19-2009 @ 22:17:15 Reply | Top | Edit

I havent bought the IC or couplers. Pipes will be 2.5 mandrel exhaust I have leftover. 3" outlet to the TB Ill have to order as i have zero 3"

It runs with the blowers and belt. They just freewheel, but functions just fine. Its on the original SD TPI harness thou, I havent got the PCM for the 0411 to run

Even at idle they are very loud

Posted By: PongoX11 On: 08-08-2009 @ 22:16:29 Reply | Top | Edit

Hands down the best thread to forget about and come back to six months later.
--
Former ride: 531RWHP/477RWTQ
roubenbird: Thanks, I was unaware. I guess the rolling eyes still didn't portray my sarcasim.

Posted By: Pocket On: 08-29-2009 @ 20:28:20 Reply | Top | Edit

I put the 0411 harness on it to test final fitment. The stock behind the fender route was too long for me so I ran it thru the heater core block off plate. That cut about 4 feet of wiring out and i wont have to remove the fender any more to get the HUGE 0411 PCM connectors thru

It fits alot better than the TPI harness and has a minimalist appearance

As it sits i cannot correctly set the timing with the vortec dist. Rotating it to true TDC pushes the #3 plug wire into the FPR and prevents the last 5* or so of rotation I need. At most the vortec dist can handle being out 2-3*

I talked with my tuner and he suggested i scrap the SD 0411 idea and run a MAF. Now I get to find another 5 wire sensor and pigtail and mod the harness for the 5th time

I grabbed a 4.3 waterneck because it was steel and i wanted to fashion my own design to snake around the belt better than the stock TPI strait neck. It turns out that the stock 4.3 neck has all the bends and lengths in the right spots so i wont have to mod anything. The downside of running the water line thru the belt is I have to drain the coolant for each belt change, and from reading prev swaps, belt changes are regular

While not related in anyway, this should satisfy your need for pics

Posted By: Pocket On: 09-03-2009 @ 18:10:08 Reply | Top | Edit

Yeah baby

Posted By: fast82Z On: 09-03-2009 @ 23:08:24 Reply | Top | Edit

That is cool, but what the hell happened to the front end of the car?
--
1982 Z28, 383, PT91mm, trick flow heads, solid roller cam, 3.73's, th400,
6000 stall, trans brake, BS3 fuel injection. Still working on a new best AIM:CHATV400

Posted By: Pocket On: 09-04-2009 @ 18:46:43 Reply | Top | Edit

I got a little happy with my saw-zall

Actually Im changing the rake of the radiator and adding the FMIC makes packaging difficult to say the least. Not like I need any of that metal for the strip

If they give me trouble Ill just weld it back on and figure out a new duct routing. No biggie

Posted By: Shift On: 09-06-2009 @ 21:06:02 Reply | Top | Edit

Wow great progress Jon. I completely forgot this forum existed for the past 4 or 5 months lol. I've been on TGO browsing LSx swap stuff non stop for so long. But yeah looks great, can't wait to see it running!
--

Posted By: Pocket On: 09-06-2009 @ 21:56:39 Reply | Top | Edit

Ive become an expert as LSx wiring too apparently as 3 members PM me regularly with issues to remedy

Most would be fixed if they didnt reuse the goddamn 4th gen harness in its entirety

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