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help on a1988 305 TBI

Posted By: J03 On: 08-03-2008 @ 22:17:08         Reply | Edit
Ok i got this 1988 fire bird for a guy like a month ago who sold it to me cheap because it wasn't running, he said that he put some 7-11 gas in it, and after that it wouldn't run. It would start up then stall or sometimes the idle would serge up and down then stall and when u push down on the gas it would start to stall till u let it up then it would serge up then die.. and if u let it get to operating temp buy pumping the gas for like 20 minutes it would smooth out and run and drive fine.. I have tried a number of things like removed the gas tank and cleaned it out good, rebuilt the TBI a new TBI plugs and wires new dist. cap new TPS, IAC,MAP, coolant temperature sensor and an EGR but nothing seems to help, and the injectors are spraying good so could it be an ECM problem, was thinking about putting in a new wiring harness but would like to see if any of u would know before i spend the $200+ on the wiring harness

Posted By: roubenbird On: 08-03-2008 @ 23:32:51     Reply | Top | Edit
I'd get out the old voltmeter and test the IAC and TPS. They are on the TBI unit and are easy to test. That way you can do a little trouble shooting before throwing parts at it.
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

WS6 3o5 TBI 88' Formula, 670cfm Holley Projection Throttle Body Holley Projection Intake Mainfold, Underdrive Pulley,Dual Snorkle & Factory Cowl Induction,now with short straight pipes, UMI Subframe connectors, Fourth Gen seats, Three row Radiator, Posi rear end (2.73),TPI heads, 1.6 roller rockers
15.543 @ 88.21mph
[ Edited on 08/03/2008 @ 23:35:18 ]

Posted By: Calaban007  Yearly Donor since 01-28-2008 On: 08-04-2008 @ 17:34:34     Reply | Top | Edit
Just throwing this out there...

While you had the Gas Tank out, did you change the fuel pump?

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

My 86 did the same type of thing. Would idle but when you gave it gas it would die. Then finally, it wouldn't do anything. Spit and sputter then cut off. Turned out the pump was bad. I took out the tank cleaned it and reinstalled it with the old pump still had the problem.

Finally hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it showed that at idle I had fuel pressure. When you revved it a bit it would drop to 17 psi and start sputtering and then die.

Good Luck
--

1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion & 1989 IROC-Z Stock restoration in progress, well almost stock
http://www.myspace.com/163296073

Posted By: J03 On: 08-04-2008 @ 20:15:54     Reply | Top | Edit
na i havent messed with the fuel pump but is there anyway else to check the fuel pressure other then a gauge?

Posted By: Calaban007  Yearly Donor since 01-28-2008 On: 08-04-2008 @ 22:21:46     Reply | Top | Edit
Not accurately.
--

1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion & 1989 IROC-Z Stock restoration in progress, well almost stock
http://www.myspace.com/163296073

Posted By: roubenbird On: 08-04-2008 @ 22:49:41     Reply | Top | Edit
Did you check the TPS?!?!?!?
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

WS6 3o5 TBI 88' Formula, 670cfm Holley Projection Throttle Body Holley Projection Intake Mainfold, Underdrive Pulley,Dual Snorkle & Factory Cowl Induction,now with short straight pipes, UMI Subframe connectors, Fourth Gen seats, Three row Radiator, Posi rear end (2.73),TPI heads, 1.6 roller rockers
15.543 @ 88.21mph

Posted By: TigerZ On: 08-05-2008 @ 07:29:05     Reply | Top | Edit
call your local shops.
my silverado had some crazy problem similiar to that except it would never stay running on its own. turns out my timing chain had slack in it and ripped some teeth off the cam gear.

if you can get it to a shop, pay them $65 for a diagnostic and then fix it urself. That's what i did till i found out what it was and said screw it and paid them to do it.

call around and find a cheap shop. If you got AAA towing just have it towed there.


--
K&N, Edelbrock, T5 swap, MSD, Flowmaster, 3.73s 3600watt sound system wrapped in falkon ziexs mmm

[ Edited on 08/05/2008 @ 07:47:16 ]

Posted By: Calaban007  Yearly Donor since 01-28-2008 On: 08-06-2008 @ 00:30:27     Reply | Top | Edit
Check the easy stuff before you take it to another shop. A voltmeter will tell you if your TPS is right, and a fuel pressure test will tell you if your pump or possibly regulator is bad or dying. I'm really leaning toward the pump.

No offense, but I can't believe you took the tank and and didn't replace it since you had it out anyways. It's a huge PITA to drop the tank and the pump was probably the original and if not, it's probably on the old side.

Change your fuel filter, even if it doesn't need it. That falls under regular maintenance and probably hasn't been done for a while, unless you did it while you were working with the tank.

Good Luck
--

1995 Camaro Z28, M6, T-Top Conversion & 1989 IROC-Z Stock restoration in progress, well almost stock
http://www.myspace.com/163296073

Posted By: oldiron On: 08-11-2008 @ 17:00:37     Reply | Top | Edit
Pump and fuel filter. These cars have problems with fuel lines itself actually becoming so rusted and beat up that they may even corrode inside. They sure do on the outside. If the injectors work fine and no dirt is ariving at injector filter, then back up and change filter and maybe the pump. Do not haywire the pump.

Oil pressure ok? Oil pressure sender switch controls fuel pump.

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer  Yearly Donor since 02-03-2008 On: 08-11-2008 @ 20:28:57     Reply | Top | Edit
tiger, thats not your cam gear. it may be your Crank gear, but not the cam gear
--
1987 Trans Am - 5.0 Auto - Flowtech Shorties - Flowmaster American Thunder - Spohn LCA's & Solid Sway Bars - Summit Drop Springs - SOLD
1989 K-5 Blazer - 5.7 - 4" Rough Country Lift - 35" BFG All Terrians - Dual 2 1/2" Pipes & Flowmaster Super 44s
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars
Pics Seen HERE-- Fbody.com Site Donator --

Posted By: J03 On: 08-11-2008 @ 22:35:57     Reply | Top | Edit
well i found out the problem seems that the hose that connects the fuel pump to the sending unit was dissolved almost into that would cause the low fuel pressure well i replaced the fuel pump and hose that connects to the sending unit and now it runs like a dream no problems sept that the rear seal on the trans is leaking and the U-joints are knocking when i go to take off but other then that it runs perfect so thanks for all of u guys help

Posted By: roubenbird On: 08-12-2008 @ 10:45:26     Reply | Top | Edit
LOL that is not the u'joints!


It's teh transmission crossbrace rubber mount! Cheap and EASY fix!
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

WS6 3o5 TBI 88' Formula, 670cfm Holley Projection Throttle Body Holley Projection Intake Mainfold, Underdrive Pulley,Dual Snorkle & Factory Cowl Induction,now with short straight pipes, UMI Subframe connectors, Fourth Gen seats, Three row Radiator, Posi rear end (2.73),TPI heads, 1.6 roller rockers
15.543 @ 88.21mph

Posted By: Pocket On: 08-12-2008 @ 18:02:51     Reply | Top | Edit
U joints make a knock too

Just not a trans-beating-the-shit-out-of-the-trans-tunnel knock

Posted By: J03 On: 08-13-2008 @ 17:11:42     Reply | Top | Edit
its not a constant knock just if i go to take off fast after i get rollin it runs fine

Posted By: roubenbird On: 08-13-2008 @ 21:44:01     Reply | Top | Edit
I know the U-joints can knock, but 999 times out of 1000 if anything is knocking on an 3rd gen f-body, it's the trans mount.

And judging by hjis last post I'd deff think it's the trans mount! LOL

everyone has changed them, some people, more than once.
--
Being rebuilt, It'll take a while:

WS6 3o5 TBI 88' Formula, 670cfm Holley Projection Throttle Body Holley Projection Intake Mainfold, Underdrive Pulley,Dual Snorkle & Factory Cowl Induction,now with short straight pipes, UMI Subframe connectors, Fourth Gen seats, Three row Radiator, Posi rear end (2.73),TPI heads, 1.6 roller rockers
15.543 @ 88.21mph

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer  Yearly Donor since 02-03-2008 On: 08-13-2008 @ 22:42:49     Reply | Top | Edit
dude, do a tranny mount first. i've been through 3 before i sold my car. any time i got on it (and it hooked, bald tires spin easily) i'd get a slam. tailshaft would hit the floor.
--
1987 Trans Am - 5.0 Auto - Flowtech Shorties - Flowmaster American Thunder - Spohn LCA's & Solid Sway Bars - Summit Drop Springs - SOLD
1989 K-5 Blazer - 5.7 - 4" Rough Country Lift - 35" BFG All Terrians - Dual 2 1/2" Pipes & Flowmaster Super 44s
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars
Pics Seen HERE-- Fbody.com Site Donator --

Posted By: J03 On: 08-16-2008 @ 22:29:54     Reply | Top | Edit
how would i go about changing the tranny mount havent really done much trans work is it just the rubber spacer on the crossmember? but ill just change the U joints anyways cuse the rear seal is leaking slowly anyways hell had to drop the gastank today again cuse my float was stuck so im ready for anything

Posted By: camaro91 On: 08-17-2008 @ 00:19:29     Reply | Top | Edit
yea that would be the tranny mount. just that mount on the crossmember. its pretty easy.
--
'91 RS, 305 tbi, auto, flowmaster american thunder
big plans! 355 lookin for 11's!
mods: tci 2500 stall, 3.73 posi, built 700r4, transgo shift kit

Posted By: LeadFootedRacer  Yearly Donor since 02-03-2008 On: 08-18-2008 @ 13:13:48     Reply | Top | Edit
i ran a poly mount on my trans am, it does give you some vibrations, but i liked it over a stock replacement. its a matter of opinion tho
--
1987 Trans Am - 5.0 Auto - Flowtech Shorties - Flowmaster American Thunder - Spohn LCA's & Solid Sway Bars - Summit Drop Springs - SOLD
1989 K-5 Blazer - 5.7 - 4" Rough Country Lift - 35" BFG All Terrians - Dual 2 1/2" Pipes & Flowmaster Super 44s
1984 Firebird - No Motor or Trans - Checkered Racing 4 Link Backhalf - M/T Sportsman 31x18.5 on 15x15 Weld Pro Stars
Pics Seen HERE-- Fbody.com Site Donator --

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