| ||||
|
[ Post New Message | Reply | Edit Profile | Register | Search | Current Connections | Message Board FAQ | Lost Password? ]
rear end what to do? Posted By: howy03 On: 01-02-2008 @ 19:11:33 Reply | Edit I am doing my first restoration project on my 1985 trans am that my father purchased new and recently gave me.I replaced the entire front end.now for the rear.I have a 9 bolt rearend I plan on removing from the car to paint and change a leaky front seal I now little about rear ends any tips or other maintenance I should do?I think its non posi how do I know for sure?and if it is should I replace it.it has ID tag with 327 gears and drum brakes.Any tips or help would be great. Posted By: Pocket On: 12-03-2007 @ 19:45:11 Reply | Top | Edit http://www.thirdgen.org/1985-pontiac-firebird There were no 3.27 rears in 85 As for the 9 bolt, its the strongest rear put in 3rd gens but still pretty flimsy They are VERY hard to find replacement parts for and when you do they are quite pricey -- "If you have complete control over the damned thing, you're not going fast enough." - Carrol Smith Posted By: howy03 On: 12-08-2007 @ 16:09:51 Reply | Top | Edit My father bought it new. Im just going by the ID tag saying ratio 3-27.Are all 9 bolt B.W.'s posi?and how do you tell?I just pulled the rear end out and need to change a pinion pinion seal.can anyone tell me how to do this.Thanks Posted By: oldiron On: 12-09-2007 @ 22:30:47 Reply | Top | Edit Guess in a funny sort of way I got here too late. My standard practice is to mark the nut and a location on the rear as it is installed. Take a large torque wrench and see what the present torque really is. Yes you will have to creep up on it by slowly increasing the torque setting. I then undo the nut by carefully counting the threads as I remove it. I now know how many turns it had and how tight it really was. In many circumstances this is all the information you need to re-seal one. Now; if you happen to get some way out figures, you should refer back to factory specs and perhaps it also indicates that you have wear in a place you havent noticed. To replace everything it is wise to make super sure there is no other problems with the case and proceeding. To me a set of strance reading on taking it out makes me real suscpicious and I start looking for all kinds of problems. Got this habit from working on fords 9 inch rears. The single most dangerous situation with one of those socalled super great rear end is that the actually develope hairline cracks in the area facing the driveshaft. Often times the fords suffer bearing damage up there and will keep right on doing this while generally no one notices cause it takes a year or two to break again. Its not the bearings fault, its the case that is actually gone, just cant tell. Real racers know the real story and get the new case and simply re-use the innards. So much for ford. But it is also possible for the chevy to get weird wear and cracking in this area causing the seal and the sleeve to actup to ruin a seal. Way off readings on torque as compared to number of turns and the right book figures generally should bring cause for alarm in the chevy rears: any of them that are built like ours. You need to get with a good manual before proceeding. Sorry I didnt get here a little earlier. I also understand how difficult it may be to find a new case, so check it carefully and then proceed to do the right thing BY THE BOOK. The first thing you didnt need to do is pull it out from under the car? Hope you havent removed the nut yet. I would not pull one out unless my readings from torque and turns were WAY off. Normal seal change can be done under the car with everything in place. Just return everything back in place with a new sleeve and seal.
|
||||
| If it looks (c) it probably is - All work done by James Hogan | ||||
